Umami Explosion?
You hear alot about Umami lately and I decided to do a little research into what it really is. Umami is actually Japanese and means basically “brothy, meaty or savory”. The Chinese have a similar word, xianwei, which means “fresh flavor.” Here in the Philippines Umami applies to MSG (Mono-sodium Glutamate) or as they call it Vetsin. It’s in everything here and is nigh on impossible to get away from. At all times I try my best to cook without using MSG because of the health risks associated with it.
So if MSG is bad for you where did it come from? Well it seems in the late 1800’s the Japanese were trying to isolate what ingredients actually cause the taste perception that they refer to as Umami. They eventually came down to a certain type of seaweed that is abundant on the coast and is used in soups. The chemists were eventually able to isolate the compound MSG and in 1903 Aji-na-Moto corporation was founded and began large scale production of MSG. In retrospect it is one of those ingredients like corn syrup or hydrogenated fats, that would not have won FDA approval if it was introduced today. The argument goes back and forth over the health issues of MSG but it has certainly been linked to high blood pressure. Also the Philippines seems to be the largest consumer of MSG in Asia. Why? because it streches the meal farther allowing you to use less meat, a plus for a poor family. However all this MSG has also given rise to rampant high blood pressure and one of the highest death rates from stroke/heart attacks in Asia.
Luckily, eliminating MSG from the diet is not an impossible task, it just involves some extra work on your part with cooking. I cheat, I bring in “No MSG” beef and chicken base from the states however you can make your own broth if you are so inclined. I will over save the bones from when I de-bone a chicken and make chicken stock out of it. With the Chinese cooking that I do, MSG is not really necessary with the proper application of spices. I did find one recipe that I want to share with you that illustrates umami without the use of MSG. It comes from the Anhui region of China a cuisine that is not well known in the west due to the remote location of Anhui. A trip to the Palenke and I was able to find Fresh Bamboo Shoots, Tofu and Chinese Sausage. In Gaisano supermarket I can find the remainder of the ingredients (dried black mushrooms, Sesame oil and oyster sauce). The Oyster sauce is Lee Kum Kee brand made in Malaysia (not Manila) which I find closer to the flavor of true Chinese Oyster Sauce.
Stir Fry Bamboo Shoots and Mushrooms
Ingredients:
1 Block Firm Tofu or 3 Chinese Mandarin Sausages (or a mix of both)
8oz Fresh bamboo shoots (rinsed and par boiled 5 mins)
1 Clove Garlic, minced fine
8-10 Chinese Dried Mushrooms (soak in water 30 mins. Drain mushrooms and reserve liquid, cut mushrooms into strips)
2 T Soy Sauce (Silver Swan or something Chinese)
1 1/2T Chinese Rice Wine or Sherry
1 T Oyster Sauce
1t Sugar
1/4C Reserved Mushroom Liquid
1/4C Chicken Broth
1 t Cornstarch dissolved in 4 t water
Sesame Oil
If using Tofu cut into 1″ cubes, sausage into 1/8″ thick rounds. In a measuring cup mix broth, liquid, sugar, oyster sauce and soy sauce and set aside. Get a wok hot and add 2 T oil. Stir fry the Tofu and/or sausage until browned and remove from wok. Add 2T oil and stir fry the bamboo shoots and mushrooms 1 minute. Add the sauce, bring to the boil and add the cornstarch mixture, stir the wok quickly to thicken. Add the tofu/sausage and turn off heat. Finish by drizzling on some sesame oil and mixing in, around 2 t.
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hi lous,
here in greece am using also vitsin[MSG]coz i cant eat,cook w/out that,my hubby ask me why all filipinos are using that things but i only answer its my secret for cooking lol!!!
Hi Louise,
I haven’t used MSG in several years. My husband used to add it to the food he cooks. We’ve stopped buying it. I found (by experimenting) that sea salt (particularly gray sea salt) eliminates the need for MSG. Thanks for sharing your recipe. Will have to try it sometime.
Hi Louis,
I have never seen the need for using MSG,and have cut the salt content in my cooking to a minimum (another major contributor to high blood pressure).Spices are great for adding flavour.
By western standards some of the Philippine diet can be unhealthy,but needs must when poverty is present.
Most margarine’s there are high in hydrogenated fats,so i always buy butter when i’m there,and spread thinly,but of course i can afford it.
The cheaper corn beefs there are very high in animal fat, unless you can afford the more expensive Brazil corn beef,which only appears to be available in major cities.
I have noticed the high consumption of animal fats there,unlike us westerners who trim our meat of excess fat.
As they say “Different strokes for different folks”.
regards Chas.
Hi Louis,
Your article got me thinking on the amount of MSG Filipinos use. I was mistaken when I said I hadn’t used MSG in years. It never occurred to me to check the ingredients list on those powder mixes (Sinigang, etc). MSG is the 2nd ingredient listed. So now I need to find a way to cook Sinigang (one of my favorites) without using the mix. Any suggestions?
I see the need for Vetsin use in the Philippines because of the inability of most Filipinos to be able to afford good spices and ingredients. What appalls me is the mentality of “If a little works, then more must be better.” With vetsin just a small amount is needed and any more is overkill… literally.
Sea salt is a wonderful alternative, full of all sorts of rare minerals the body needs. I do my best to find it here but it’s gotten rather rare with the flood of cheap salt from China.
MSG is superfluous, it’s not really needed but ask a Filipino and the power of persuasion will tell them that they need it. I rarely eat beef here and at any rate it’s a USA Food NAZI’s dream as it’s so low in fat. As for corned beef I look on the label for ones that include carabao meat, it just tastes better to me. I can’t afford the high end stuff so I’m stuck with PureFoods and the equivalent.
Margarine here is a travesty, that being said there is one brand I put my faith in, DariCream. It’s made with buttermilk and I use it when I make biscuits or pie crust. Otherwise it’s Anchor butter for me but 500g lasts me a whole month.
Let me get back to you on that. Maybe it’s time for a trip to the palenke and an article on Sinigang. Yes indeed MSG is insidious, hiding in places you don’t even expect it to be.