Trip to Southern Mindanao

Today’s Guest Column is from longtime LiP friend Jim Cunningham.  After a long love affair with Talakag, Bukidnon, Jim finally broke down and settled there in 2008.  Jim is venturing out and exploring new parts of Mindanao, and today he will share one of his recent adventures with us here on LiP.

Early last week Marilou accepted an invitation from her cousin who lives in General Santos city to travel there and spend a few days in order to see the new house she is building.

Since this decision was taken on the Tuesday morning and we were travelling on the Thursday it did not leave a lot of time for preparation for the journey which was incidentally by road with me driving. Marilou’s cousin was visiting her mother who lives in Cagayan de Oro and was travelling back to Gen San in any case so at least we had a navigator for the journey.

Prior to this trip I had only been as far as Davao before and that was as a passenger so it was quite an adventure for me.

With the vehicle duly fuelled up and the baon box filled we set out from Talakag at 4am to drive down to Cagayan de Oro and pick up her cousin. Fortunately the weather was good with no rain and most folks in bed we arrived in CdeO just after 4.30am to collect a very sleepy cousin. With all safely on board we set off on our journey to Gen San by way through Manolo Fortich, Malaybalay, Valencia, Maramag and Quezon then on to Buda and Davao.

Being early in the morning the traffic was light and we made good progress towards Malaybaly the road is much improved but by no means perfect since the last time I travelled it in March to attend the Kaamulan festival. Maybe in another year’s time it will be completed fingers crossed, CdeO to Malaybaly took us two hours. With the sun now up it was on to Valencia and a comfort stop for the girls three in all, I forgot to mention that we took along the puppy that we acquired three weeks earlier on the journey. She was as good as gold by doing her business under the Jollibee sign whilst the other girls had the decency to at least go inside.

So it was back on the road next to Maramag, I always wonder what plans are in store for Maramag with the Municipal Hall sitting so big and grand and isolated from the rest of the town out of all proportion to the town itself. Maybe one day we will find out.
There are two ways to go to Gen San from Maramag take the right at the Y junction via Don Carlos and North Cotobato or left to Quezon and Buda, we chose left the more scenic route. Once again we were on our way passing the never ending road works of Quezon. The M1 London to Leeds was completed much quicker than the half Km of road in Quezon High Street.

This is where the road starts to climb and the views become spectacular particularly at Over View where there is a place to stop and picnic. Well it was open the last time we went to Davao but this time it was closed however the security guard let us in to admire the view and allow me to use the comfort room. Did I say comfort when the lady opened the door for me I had no sooner started to jingle when out of the corner of my eye I spotted a halas making for the cubicle nearest me. Well by now I was into full flow and not having been since Talakag I had to keep one eye on the halas and the other on the business in case I had an accident on my shorts (the wet kind). I decided not to wash my hands after completion but instead bolted for the door. Once outside I casually mentioned to the lady and the gardener that there was a halas in the CR. Well all hands on deck and the halas was soon brought out and given a sound beating, its last I may add.

The roads in this area are very scenic with the mountain views mixed with an all most alpine feel with many pine trees growing in this region of the Bukidnon/Davao border.
The passengers in the Batchelor buses that ply the CdeO to Davao route may as well close their curtains as the buses go that fast they never see anything of the scenery, I’m sure.
On down the road to Davao with the traffic still light and the road quite good for a change we arrived in Davao at 11am a decent 6 ½ hours less the comfort stops etc from Talakag. Only stopping to refuel in Davao we were soon on our way to Gen San with only the road works between Davao and Digos to slow us down although by now the traffic was heavier we arrived in Gen San just after 1.30 pm.

After lunch we visited the new house that Marilou’s cousin is having built then it was a tour of Gen San and also making a reservation to stay the Friday in Isla Parilla a resort on the outskirts of Gen San then it was back to the city for the mandatory photo outside the house of the wee man himself. I just wish I could have seen him but a photo outside the house is better than nothing at all. That night we had dinner in Grab a Crab which for those who intend visiting Gen San is worth a try. It was early to bed that night as I was tired between the long drive, the encounter with the halas and seeing Manny’s residence.

Waking up on an egg producing farm with a production capacity of 70,000 eggs per day can be an experience, guess what was on the menu for breakfast? Yes every recipe for eggs you can imagine. Since eggs are one of my favourite foods it was no hardship for me.

The itinery was already planned for the day by the girls so I had no option but to tag along. The plan was to visit Lake Sebu located in South Cotabato in the morning, so we set off about 8am and the road which incidentally was very good took us through the city of Koronadal and the town of Surallah before turning off to the resort at Lake Sebu. The particular resort we visited was called Punta Isla where it’s claimed “Life blends with nature”.  The resort was indeed beautiful and the prices for accommodation were all under 1,000 pesos per night. Whilst we were there Marilou bought some T’Boli pashminas (batik shawls) and we tasted the tilapia fingerlings chicharon which were excellent. We had to leave sooner than we had wished as we were to visit the Dole Country Club at Polomolok on the way back to Gen San. The approach to the Dole complex is a bit of a mystery tour to be honest it must be the best kept secret in the south of Mindanao. You have to pass through pineapple plantations that stretch for miles in order to arrive at a gated compound where entry is by invitation only and after asking for my name and checking his list the security guard told me to bugger off, only joking! Once inside the compound it’s like entering another world with the houses arranged in avenues of pine trees all the way past the private school to the club house and leisure complex with swimming pool and golf course immaculately kept. I was impressed with the standard of everything within the complex; whoever is the CEO of this particular facility has excellence as his byword.

So it was back to Gen San to grab a quick lunch at Marilou’s cousins house then on to Isla Parilla to check in and spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the pool and trying our hand at fishing and considering it’s a fish farm we might as well have gone to the wet market in Gen San for all the luck we had. I think Marilou is a jinx when it comes to fishing.

Later that evening we went to a local BBQ restaurant called McDo (formerly called 4 Brothers) for those who know Gen San. When we arrived there was a brown out I thought this was part of the atmosphere until the lights came back on just after sitting down at our table to discover the whole place was filled with smoke from the BBQ burners and the candles. It was so smokey Marilou tried several times to take photographs without success until the smoke cleared. The BBQ was superb with the speciality being essol no prizes for guessing what part of the manok this is but just in case you’re struggling, there is only one and its dual purpose. I must have eaten 5 sticks of this particular delicacy and enjoyed every one of them. (Now I know why it’s dark in there). Following our meal I was then informed that by eating there I had tasted the real Gen San BBQ. So it was back to Isla Parilla for a nightcap of sashimi (raw tuna cubes with wasabi and soy sauce) and some cold beers to wash it down.

Next morning following breakfast we headed for what we were informed was one of the nicest beaches in the Sarangani Bay area at a place called Glan. Once again the roads were excellent and the drive down the eastern side of Sarangani Bay gave me new scenery to look at. The resort we visited was well worth the journey as so far this area has not yet been commercialized. The Rosal Beach Resort comprised of pure white sands and the beach itself stretched as far as half a kilometre each side of the resort. With the blue waters of the bay and the white sands it was truly a tropical paradise to behold.
The resort is currently being developed with a two storey accommodation facility being built with approximately ten rooms available when completed.

This location will be a place to go in the future for those who enjoy the tranquil life.
So once again it was back to Gen San as Marilou had a hidden agenda or should I say a mission to complete. Marilou has been communicating by email with Ms Rue Ramas for over a year now since she is interested in Rue’s craft industry in converting the humble corn husk into all kinds of beautiful items such as decorative flowers, native dolls and all types of ladies bags to mention but a few of the items. Rue has been organising and holding seminars all over the Philippines for many years encouraging this type of handicraft in conjunction with government and educational agencies.

After visiting the Gen San corn craft centre where all the goods made from the waste corn husks are available to purchase we were invited by Rue to drop in at her house in the city. When we arrived we were informed that we would be guest guinea pigs to sample the culinary delights of a new restaurant venture opening soon located within the garden of Rue’s house. The Red Trellis Seafood Garden Restaurant is owned and managed by George Sandoval a well known local business man and the theme is a Japanese Garden. I must confess when the offer to sample the new menu was made we were delighted and not being one to disappoint a chef was looking forward to this pleasant experience. So just imagine the setting Marilou and myself in the company of two amazing hosts in a little corner of Japan in the city of Gen San awaiting a feast. And when the dishes started to appear I was like a dog with six bones not knowing which one to chew first. The food I must stress is not Japanese only the theme of the restaurant. The food is entirely Pinoy and comprises the best of the entire Philippines not just regional. I could have continued eating long after lunchtime had passed with superb food and such entertaining company I just know this venue will be a success due to the commitment for quality and service. Good luck George with this truly original venture in a city which is really progressive.

Following 10 rounds with Manny Paquiao I was ready to go out again that evening for dinner and there was another delight in store for us with a visit to Sarangani Highlands. This particular restaurant overlooks the Sarangani Bay and is famous for viewing the setting sun over the bay. Unfortunately on the evening we were there the cloud cover prevented us from witnessing the sunset but dinner nevertheless was delicious. By the way the CR facility here must be one of the best in the Philippines with superb views, believe me.

Having packed away a lunch and dinner in the same day that would have done Bob Martin proud we were not finished yet as we stopped for dessert at Jojo’s who had surely the biggest Halo Halo if not in the Philippines, certainly in Mindanao. When it arrived I thought it would have six spoons but oh no only one. It was served in a buko shell filled to overflowing and once again I did the chef proud. After I put away my dessert with a struggle I might add I was informed that there is another place in Gen San that serves up an even bigger Halo Halo which I will be introduced to on my next visit to the city in December.

So it was back to the farm for a good night’s sleep as it was off to Davao the next day on our return journey to Talakag.

With the vehicle checked and washed and duly loaded with plants for our garden (orchids) no less and eggs of course, extra large and jumbo only the best and eggs for breakfast what else did you expect we were on our way. I almost forgot the puppy with all the extra load we were carrying back home.

With it being Sunday the roads were reasonably quiet and I had already warned Marilou no stopping to buy anything on the way as there was no room left in the vehicle. You must be joking when we reached the area where the wood carvers sell their wares she jumped out at a road block and quick as a flash she had purchased a dual purpose snowboard-serving lechon tray for a 50 kilo baboy and somehow slipped it into the back of the vehicle. On the next leg of the journey I must ensure the childproof locks are on that will stop her from jumping out to buy things. Marilou’s cousin I forgot to mention was driving her husband’s pickup on the journey to Davao as he was playing in a golf tournament there and needed the pickup to take back some materials he intended to purchase in Davao. When we reached the city proper she moved in front of me to lead the way to the hotel. I think she forgot that we were following her and the race was soon on to stay behind her. If she had drove down from CdeO with me as a passenger I would have got out and taken a Bachelor bus as it would have been safer. With her driving even the manok and the goats looked left and right before crossing the road.

Anyway we did arrive at the Bagobo House Hotel in one piece, thank god it was Sunday and not a week day as I’m sure we would have been arrested by the Highway Patrol.
Now in Davao there are restaurants and restaurants where ever one might be but when you’re with someone who knows their onions so to speak you can be guaranteed a good lunch and once again at Dencio’s we were not disappointed, try it sometime.

However to crown an eating marathon over the last few days we had dinner in the Emerald Seafood restaurant which was superb, again please try it for yourself if in Davao.
We left Davao on Monday morning at 7.45am to journey back to Talakag having spent the most enjoyable five day break I’ve had in a long time. My waist needs some work as it was sorely abused during the trip south but I at least enjoyed every mouthful.

We got back into CdeO around 2pm for those who are interested avoiding Overview to jingleize instead holding on till Jollibee in Vallencia and the total journey was about 1,000 KMs.

Having done this journey I conclude that travelling by car is the best way to see and appreciate what the Philippines has to offer scenery wise as you are up close and personal all the way, potholes and all.