Visas for Filipinos

Having written on LiP for the last year and a half, one of the most common categories of question I see is about the topic of Visas. What is a visa? Well, when you arrive in a country, the stamp they place in your passport is a visa… It states that you are approved to remain in a country for a specific period of time, along with any limitations of any activities you are allowed to do, for instance tourism, business, and so on. In essence, it grants you permission to visit and for what purpose. Some countries issue visas on arrival, some may require no visa for citizens of certain countries, and some require a visa to be in possession before travel. A visa is NOT a guarantee of entry to a country… Most countries give their border officials a wide latitude in determining whether or not you are permitted entry. In some countries, particularly in the developing world, visas make up a source of revenue for the government. In fact, a simple tourist visa to some countries, Including the US, can often run into the hundreds of dollars.

The Philippines is actually quite liberal when it comes to visa-on-arrival entry. There are very few countries’ passport holders who are required to obtain a visa in advance of arrival. Most US, Canadian, UK, or Schengen passport holders have relatively few countries where visas are required in advance, and travel is relatively easy. This is NOT the situation for most Filipinos, however. Most foreigners who marry Filipinos or get into relationships with Filipino citizens quickly discover that it is not easy for Filipinos to travel to many countries. Indeed, when my company was deciding where to locate its’ Asian office, one of the primary deciding factors against deciding to locate it in the Philippines was the inability for Filipino technicians and engineers to easily travel to Taiwan, Japan, Korea, or the United States. Why is that?

Well, like it or not, true or false, there are a number of reasons:

1. The Philippines has developed a reputation as a source for cheap labor, taking jobs away from local citizens.
2. The Philippines has a reputation as a source of mail-order brides, sex tourism, and human trafficking.
3. The Philippines is often regarded as a source of drugs or as a trans-shipment point for drugs.
4. The terrorist or separatist groups that are still active in the country.
5. The large numbers of Filipinos that enter developed countries on tourist visas and overstay their visa illegally and do not return to the Philippines (This is cited as a primary reason for the difficulty in Filipinos obtaining US Visas.).

I have read that between 70% and 90% of all tourist visa applications from Filipinos are denied. Even if that number is inflated, that is a huge percentage. So, you meet a person who is a Philippine citizen, get engaged, and want him or her to go visit the States to meet the family… Just buy them a ticket and no problem… Right? Wrong. OK… You’ll “sponsor” your wife and write an affidavit of financial support. Also wrong. In fact, marriage to a US citizen is not even a guarantee that a visa will be granted. What immigration looks for is intent to LEAVE the United States. Stable job. Bank account with a few hundred thousand pesos. Owning land here. Having electric and other utilities in their own name. How many average Filipinos do you know who can PROVE these things? For expats that intend to live in the Philippines permanently, these types of tourist visa applications are often viewed suspiciously by DHS in the States. Why wouldn’t you want a K-3 to live there permanently? Something to consider before moving to the Philippines.

Well, what about travelling within Asia? For instance, I would LOVE to have Rebecca travel to Japan with me. Problem is, Japanese visas are notoriously difficult for Filipinos to obtain. It is just not worth it for all the hassles just for a trip of a couple of days.

Now, often, Philippine passport holders getting just ONE of the major visas (US, Canada, Schengen, UK, Japan) in their passport makes the other visas a sort of “rubber stamp”. In other words, having a US visa makes a Schengen visa much, much easier to obtain, being less likely to be denied. For Rebecca and I, not intending to live in the US permanently, as of now, a tourist visa (B1) for the US is our best option. We were in process before Juanito entered the picture, and we dropped the process until his paperwork is done and we can travel together. The US Embassy in Manila becomes a necessary evil in this regard, and the process is neither easy, nor quick. The first time we scheduled Rebecca’s interview, the web site stated within 7 days… The actual time was 4 months later. Is it frustrating? You bet. Especially when you are legally married. But, you have no other options, so you grit your teeth, grin it, and bear it.

So, you are living here, and want to take a vacation trip with your Filipino spouse. Where can Filipinos travel without a visa in advance? The list below was shamelessly copied from Wikipedia, but is accurate, to the best of my knowledge. Filipinos can travel to a fair number of countries, as is noted on the list. However, most destinations in Latin America or the Caribbean require a transit through the US, which, after 9/11, requires a visa for transit, so they are effectively closed to visa free travel (in practice, if not in law.)

Visa-free travel

It is estimated that 62 countries and territories granted visa-free or visa-on-arrival access to Philippine passport holders, while 41 countries and territories are visa free accessible (visa on arrival for free counted). Visa issued prior to arrival or pre-arrangement required for countries or territories not mentioned below.

Africa
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Burundi
visa issued upon arrival [2]

Cape Verde
visa issued upon arrival [3]

Comoros
A free 24 h transit visa issued upon arrival at the airport. Within 24 hours this must be converted into a full visa at the immigration office in Moroni (fee payable) [4]

Djibouti
10-day visa issued upon arrival for DJF3,000; 1-month visa issued upon arrival for DJF5,000 [5]

Egypt (South Sinai only)
14-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [6]

Gambia
At port of entry passport 24-72 h transit pass is issued. This must be converted into a full visa valid up to 1 month at the immigration department in Banjul (fee payable) [7]

Kenya
3-month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [8]

Madagascar
90-day visa issued upon arrival for MGA140,000 [9]

Morocco
3 months [10]

Mozambique
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$25 [11]

Saint Helena
visa issued upon arrival

Seychelles
1 month [12]

Tanzania
visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [13]

Togo
7-day visa issued upon arrival [14]

Uganda
6-month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [15]

Zambia
3 month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [16]

Asia
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
ASEAN

Brunei Darussalam
14 days [17]

Cambodia
21 days [18]

Indonesia
30 days [19]

Laos
30 days [20]

Malaysia
1 month [21]

Singapore
30 days [22]

Thailand
30 days [23]

Vietnam
21 days [24]

Non-ASEAN

Armenia
120-day visa issued upon arrival for AMD 15,000 [25]

Azerbaijan
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$100 [26]

Bangladesh
90-day visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [27]

Georgia
3 month visa issued on arrival for US$10 ~ US$200 [28]

Hong Kong
14 days [29]

Iran
15-day visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [30]

Israel
3 months [31]

South Korea (Jeju Island only)
30 days [32]

Macau
30 days [33]

Maldives
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [34]

Mongolia
21 days [35]

Nepal
15/30/90 day visa issued upon arrival for US$25/40/100 [36]

Sri Lanka
30 days [37]

Timor-Leste
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$30 [38]

Europe
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Kosovo
90 days [39]

Oceania
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Cook Islands
31 days [40]

Fiji
4-month Visitor’s Permit issued upon arrival (free of charge) [41]

Marshall Islands
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [42]

Federated States of Micronesia
30 days [43]

Niue
30 days [44]

Palau
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [45]

Samoa
60-day Visitor’s Permit issued upon arrival (free of charge) [46]

Tuvalu
1-month visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [47]

Vanuatu
30 days [48]

North America
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Bermuda
6 months [49]

Costa Rica
30 days [50]

Dominica
21 days [51]

Haiti
3 months [52]

Nicaragua
90 days [53]

Saint Kitts and Nevis
14 days [54]

Saint Lucia
6-week visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [55]

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
1 month [56]

Turks and Caicos Islands
30 days [57]

South America
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Bolivia
59 days [58]

Brazil
90 days [59]

Colombia
90 days [60]

Ecuador
90 days [61]

Peru
90 days [62]

Suriname
120 days [63]

Our trip to Manila Ocean Park

Did you know that Manila has a brand new aquarium? Well, it does, down off Roxas Blvd, near Luneta Park. Manila Ocean Park partially opened last year, and we decided to spend the day down there, followed by lunch at the Harbor Side restaurant.

Manila Ocean Park is owned by a Chinese firm that operates aquariums in Mainland China, and they are in the midst of developing an ocean themed entertainment complex right on the bay, eventually including a bigger aquarium, shopping mall, and hotel. At this point in time, just the aquarium is open, and they have done a pretty nice job on it, if a bit pricey by Manila standards.

So, we decided to take Juanito to see the fish, even though he is still a bit young for this type of thing. He really seemed to enjoy it, though. The fish were really active, and the viewing areas had little ledges so he could stand next to the glass. Admission is a whopping 400 pesos each…AND, they “nickel and dime” you once inside, like most theme parks and so on… pretty steep for most families in Manila, but there was certainly a full house. The animals also all seemed to be well cared for, as opposed to several of the zoos and such in this country. When the aquarium is completely finished, it will be the largest aquarium in SE Asia, and one of the largest in all of Asia. They are currently building a Whale Shark tank and a dolphin tank. Both of which will be pretty huge, in terms of size. One really nice thing about Ocean Park is that nearly all of the fish on exhibit are native to the Philippines. That’s right… almost every one of the thousands of fish in the tanks are from here, making a really big impression about how rich the sea life in these islands is and how colorful it can be.

When you arrive, you enter a “take a number” queue, like most of the banks here, in order to buy your tickets.  Bit confusing, but took only about 15 minutes with a large crowd there. As soon as you enter, you go into a “jungle area”, with crocodiles and large freshwater fish. This is the only part that is NOT handicapped accessible. We found this out trying to push Juanito’s stroller. There is a way around the jungle steps for strollers and wheelchairs, but I checked the stroller and just carried my son (It was easier to pick him up so he could see that way, anyway). From the jungle area, you go to a large “touch tank”, where kids can pick up and hold different types of fish. From there, you enter two very large galleries of large fish tanks, some containing very rare and endangered species, before entering the centerpiece tank, which is one of the large tunnels going through the middle of the tank.  This is also where the crowds are, though there are plenty of seats to sit and just watch the fish and the “mermaids” swimming around in the tank (Like Weeki Wachee in Florida). At the end, there is a fish spa, where you sit at the edge of a tank with your legs in the water and surgeon fish eat all the dead skin off of your legs. This costs extra, and we had Juanito with us, so we passed (He liked seeing the fish and was smiling and giggling the whole time, but he’s still pretty young for much more that 45 minutes or so.) Also, when you leave, the journey through the gift shops and the middle of the restaurants.

All in all, you could spend a couple of hours there, and since this is the only facility like this in the Philippines, most Filipinos have never seen anything like it before. Rebecca had only been to one aquarium (In Hong Kong last year) and our maid was simply dumbfounded that such a place could even be built! Though I’ve been to many aquariums before, it was still a nice way to spend an afternoon in Manila, and if you still have energy, Luneta Park and Intramuros are right nearby, as is Mall of Asia!

So, we bypass the fast food option and head next door to the Harbor Side restaurant, built on a pier sticking out in Manila Bay. The place has been there for many years (40, I think), and has good Pinoy food, mostly seafood, and wonderful views of the bay and Roxas Blvd, with fantastic ocean breezes… You really feel that you leave Manila, though you are only 100m from Roxas.

All in all, a very pleasant day with my family, before heading out on the road again! Give it a try next time in Manila! Some pictures:

Flying to Tuguegarao

Last month, I needed to go up to Abulug in order to pick up Rebecca and Juanito. We are back and forth to the province about every month, depending on what needs to be done up there. Over the course of this year, with Juanito’s adoption in progress and several land transactions (along with a squatter problem), we have had to go to Abulug more often than normal… And it usually involves things that Rebecca must do, rather than my being the helpful Kano husband. Abulug is 120 km away from the closest airport, in Tuguegarao. To get up there, there are three ways to go: Drive, bus, or Fly and drive. Each way of travelling has its’ own advantages and disadvantages, and we tend to use whichever method suits our needs for a particular trip. Of the three travelling methods, we use the bus the most, followed by me driving, and flying the least often.

Here’s how we travel, with the approximate costs, time, advantages, and disadvantages. I hope this is helpful to expats when deciding how to travel within the country… The relative advantages, disadvantages, and costs are roughly comparable throughout most of the country, regardless of  your destination. Note that we normally rent a car up North when I travel (Rebecca never learned how to drive)… At the end, I’ll detail how to do that in the province (No Avis or Hertz in most small provincial towns).

By bus:

Cost: Florida Lines, Cubao or Sampaloc to Tuguegarao, Aparri, or Ballesteros.

400 pesos each way, per person for Ordinary (Small seats, no aircon, many stops)… 12 hours to Tuguegarao, 16 to Aparri or Ballesteros.

650 pesos each way, per person for Deluxe (Same as Ordinary, but with padded seats, aircon, and video… Planned stops every 2-3 hours)… Same time as Ordinary.

850 pesos each way, per person, for Super Deluxe (Wide seats, aircon, videon, one stop or nonstop)… 9 hours to Tuguegarao. No Service to Aparri or Ballesteros. (FX, Jeepney, or drive from there, about 3 hours).

950 pesos each way, per person, for Sleeper (very comfortable Lie-flat seats, nonstop, only one bus per day to each origin station). 8-9 hours to Tuguegarao. No service to Aparri or Ballesteros. (FX, Jeepney, or drive from there, about 3 hours).

Rebecca has been taking the bus back and forth to Abulug from the time she was an infant. Note that there is normally no central bus station in Philippine towns (There used to be a Central terminal in Cubao during the Marcos years, but that has long since disappeared)… Each bus company operates its’own stations along their allotted routes. The locations of the station you depart from depend on where you are going and which bus company owns the route. For Tuguegarao, it is Florida Lines and Victory Lines, primarily, with a few smaller bus companies also. Once you ride a route, you learn where the stops are located for meals, though I must caution tender Western stomachs to be really careful when eating along bus routes. We always take the busses that leave in the early evening, travelling overnight, and arriving very early AM in Tuguegarao (or late AM in Ballesteros).

Advantages:

1. Virtually unlimited amounts of baggage (Generally, for two people, 3 bags / boxes per person… Over that, you buy a “seat” for your cargo, either officially, or unofficially by making a deal with the driver or conductor.) This is an advantage for us since there are times we may be carrying several hundred kg of “stuff” with us to the province.

2. Very cheap way to travel.

3. Ironically, very relaxing. The stops break up the trip, and, if travelling in daytime, a beautiful route with nice scenery.

Disadvantages:

1. It is a bloody long ride, and very hard day… Lose a day up and a day back. Except the sleeper bus, it can be difficult to get much sleep.

2. The bus drivers tend to set the aircon cold enough to hang meat in the bus (or freeze all testicular function).

3. We have had things stolen from baggage on the bus (While we were asleep… an Ipod and Cell Phone)… Keep valuables close at hand.

Driving:

Cost: I pay 2,000 pesos per day, plus petrol (one tank up and one tank back) for a Nissan Sentra (Private owner… Hertz and Avis average 3,500, but you are insured and not responsible for any damage… an issue. Read my earlier article about driving at night). (Average 10,000 pesos for short, up and back, trips… 3 days minimum).

Time: 14 hours minimum, each way (I made it once 13.5 hours, but in bad traffic, it also took 19 hours once.)

Advantages:

1. No need to rent a vehicle up North.

2. Lots of room for baggage and cargo.

3. Ability to stop whenever we want.

4. No problem on Juanito’s car seat.

Disadvantages:

1. Long, hard, drive, with few hotels along the way to sleep over. After going up and back, I need time to recover.

2. Dangerous at night.

3. More expensive.

Flying:

Cost: Despite the low fares advertised, it averages out at 5,000 pesos per person each way after taxes, departure fees, and taxi to the airport.

Time: 2 hours screwing around at the airport, 45 minutes flight time. Tuguegarao flights are ALWAYS late(Every time I’ve flown there, sometimes by up to 3 hours. Still need to get to Abulug after landing, so + 3 hours). Minimum time 6 hours.

Advantages:

1. Despite delays, quick and less stressful. Still have 1/2 day in Abulug on travel days.

2. Relatively comfortable.

3. Flights depart from NAIA Terminal 3… New and stress free.

Disadvantages:

1. Tight baggage weight / pc restrictions (This is a BIG issue with us). Restrictions are more strict on domestic flights.

2. Limited number of flights (One each daily, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific). The return flight turns around immediately, and each airline departs near the same time, so impossible to fly up and back the same day (You need minimum of one night overnight in Tuguegarao).

3. Most expensive way to travel.

4. Still need to get from Tuguegarao. (Going by FX averages 500 pesos for Filipinos each way, 1,000 pesos for Kanos each way…Unless you are a highly skilled negotiator… The drivers are all in Kahoots, so the rates are fairly standard, including Kano pricing).

Car Rental in Tuguegarao or Aparri:

As I mentioned above, I tend to rent a car when I go up to Abulug. There are a number of reasons behind this, not least of which is that since Rebecca’s mother does not own a car, there is usually some hauling and other tasks that need to be done up on the farm. Additionally, we tend to go to Tuguegarao and then shop, do other chores, before heading up to Abulug. A vehicle makes these tasks much, much easier. As I mentioned, there aren’t many car rental options outside of Manila, Cebu, Davao, and GenSan, so how do we rent a vehicle? Well, the answer is that we rent from Becky’s large, extended family. In Tuguegarao, we rent a Mitsubishi Pajero from an in-law at 2,500 pesos per day, plus petrol. In Aparri, we rent an FX from Rebecca’s uncle for 2,000 pesos per day, plus petrol. Filling the tank on each of these vehicles usually costs between 2,500 and 3,000 pesos for diesel. We are 100% responsible for any damage, regardless of fault (Even a flat tire… I had to get one fixed… You don’t just call Avis!)… Something to keep in mind before making these types of arrangements. Also, when you rent from Hertz or a company, the daily rate clock is 24 hours from when you pick up the car… Expect in these types of arrangements to pay an extra day over the time you rent, because they always count sun-up to sundown as a full “day” . Most Jeepneys and FXs can also be rented by the day, with driver, averaging 2,000 pesos for an FX or 1,000 pesos for a jeepney… The drivers wait for the busses and flights to arrive and congregate there at those times. You just need to ask around at the airport or bus depot… SOMEONE will rent to you there.

Hopefully, you found this article helpful before heading out into the sticks… Again, costs and times are relative, but having travelled in all three regions of the Philippines, they are relatively consistent in my experience.

Of Bellies and Shirts

This short posting is about a serious topic, and everyone reading this should take me absolutely seriously. Well, I am kidding around (So, no offense folks), but this is about something I find most unusual. When you travel around the Philippines, one thing you immediately notice outside of every carinderia, bar, or sari sari store, is the way that the men are dressed. What’s that, you might ask? Why should I notice?

Well, Filipino men have a most unusual habit of walking around with their shirts pulled up over their bellies. Don’t believe me? I’ve seen at least two guys walking around like this wherever there is a group of more than 4 guys standing around drinking beer. Think, “King of the Hill” in the States.  An interesting habit, and one unlikely to catch on outside of the Philippines, and, save for the most redneck parts of America, a mode of dress that I’ve never really seen too much. What am I talking about? Well, here’s a picture of me wearing my shirt in said fashion…. Lock up the kids, avert your eyes if you have a queasy stomach, and get the eye bleach ready… You’ll need it….

>>>>>>

>>>>>>

>>>>>>

Ready?????

>>>>>

Not kidding about the eye bleach….You’ve been warned!

>>>>>>>

Well, here goes….

OK… now, to truly wear your shirt in proper Pinoy style, scrunch it up just below your nipples, and stand there with both hands looking like they are clawing at your belly! Thrust the belly out for proper posture, and don’t be shy! Now, you may not be granted entrance to Malacanang Palace like that, but when drinking beer with the guys outside the sari sari store or with the tricy drivers, you’ll fit right in. It also is certainly cooler, and the shirt acts as a sort of sweatband, keeping your lower extremities dry.

Just one of the happy, unique aspects of life in the Philippines!

Sitting for our family portrait at TriNoma

Last month, we decided that it was time to have a family portrait made of Rebecca, myself, and Juanito. Certainly, since Juanito arrived, we have taken many, many pictures. However, this was the first time that we had a professional take a formal portrait of all of us together.

So, we packed up Juanito into the car, and headed over to TriNoma mall in Quezon City. TriNoma is a somewhat upscale mall here, with all of the major brand stores and things that most expats are likely to need when moving here. The mall is anchored by Landmark, an ultra-modern, upscale supermarket and department store. In fact, that is one of the primary reasons I am writing this article: The concern as to the availability of different items in the Philippines. Yes, the Philippines may be considered the developing world, yet, it is important for people to remember this: There is a hell of a lot of money in this country. Income distribution is widely unequal, and the “have-nots” certainly struggle just to survive from day to day. But what about the “haves”? Well, say that 5% of the population are well off. That equates to roughly 5 million people who are very much high-end consumers, most of whom live and work in Metro Manila. These consumers demand all of the goods that one could find in Europe or the United States, both in terms of quality and availability. In other words, everything that you could expect to find in the West is available here… For a price. That is what expats need to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to move here. Yes, the modern, top-line, feature-laden, LG refrigerator is for sale here, but do you want to spend the additional money to purchase this type of refrigerator, or would a simpler model suffice? These are the types of questions you will need to answer when moving here. What is important to you and a “necessity” or what will be sufficient for your standard of living. Once you head out of Manila to the provinces, availability of “luxury” goods drops quickly… Remember where those with the money tend to live. It is not Tuguegarao.

The point of all this is that a formal portrait by a professional photographer is very much considered a luxury out in the sticks… Not many people in the province can or will spend a whole month’s wages on a family picture. Yes, there are a few photographers out there, but you will need to search for them. Rebecca had never sat for a portrait in her entire life, save for passport photos.  There is a wing at TriNoma where there are 3 or 4 photo studios right next to each other. So, we choose one. Even the pricing was unfamiliar to her… She thought that you pay to have your picture taken, rather than paying for each print that is made. After the sticker shock wore off a bit, we ended up with one museum-quality framed portrait, along with about a dozen prints. The thought that we have at least one really nice photo together made it all worthwhile in her mind. So, below, here’s a couple of the pictures we had made.

Announcing….

We have a new writer starting today on LiP.  I am kind of excited to be announcing this one too.

It all started a week or two ago when I got an e-mail from John Miele.  John asked me if I thought it would be OK for his wife, Rebecca to start writing some articles here on LiP!  Wow… it was a surprise to me, because I didn’t see that coming.

Surprise or not, it was something that I was quite happy about.  I enjoy John’s articles, and adding Rebecca’s perspective can only make for some interesting reading, in my opinion.

So, I am happy to announce that Rebecca’s first article is appearing on LiP today!

John and Rebecca are now the second LiP “blogging couple” after Feyma and I teamed up on this site about 2 1/2 years ago!  I look forward to reading what Rebecca has to say.

So, please join me in welcoming Rebecca Miele to LiP!

Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em

This phrase has been heard by countless GIs over the years. I can almost hear some of the comments coming as I type this article. In recent times, in most of North America, Europe, and Australia, smoking has become taboo, with smokers being regarded as somewhat akin to lepers… EGADS! How dare you poison MY air!?!?!?!? (I’m self-censoring my response, but I think you can hazard a pretty good guess.)

Yes, I too am one of those who smokes the noxious weed. I’m normally reasonably considerate about it… If I am somewhere where smoking is permitted and someone nicely asks me to put it out, I generally do so. I have been highly successful at quitting… I’ve quit dozens of times. Oh, you mean that it is results that count? Well, not so successful.

For those considering moving to the Philippines who are bothered by smoke, you should be prepared to face a lot more smokers here than in the Western world… Welcome to Asia. You also generally will not find much sympathy among the general populace, so, if smoke really bothers you, you need to adjust… It is highly unlikely that the 35 million Filipino smokers will change their habits just to suit you.

Officially, around 35% of Filipinos smoke. Unofficially, just travelling around here, that percentage is too low. Officially, in Manila, it is illegal to smoke indoors in enclosed public spaces, and that law is generally followed, observed, and abided by in shopping malls and movie theatres and the like. However, open-air restaurants and most bars that serve primarily liquor are exempt. Additionally, some places, like airports, generally have enclosed smoking bars on the premises. The Philippines is gradually becoming more smoke-free, and, honestly, even as a smoker, I tend to agree with most of the prohibitions, especially in enclosed restaurants.

However, if you want to be a scofflaw (and not a very good guest in the country, by the way), most smoking fines are under 1,000 pesos, which is easily affordable for most foreigners. In any event, you will encounter many, many smokers here, most of whom start at a young age (as most smokers do nearly everywhere). Cigarettes are among the cheapest in the entire world here, with a standard pack of 20 costing anywhere from 20 pesos (40 cents US) for really awful locally made sticks, to 35 pesos (sometimes cheaper) (80 cents US) for Philippine-manufactured Marlboros, to 70 pesos for imported brands, to 80 pesos at the airport. Most sari sari stores will also sell cigarettes by the stick, or in small packs of 5 or 10. In fact, the only places I know of where cigarettes are cheaper is Russia and Indonesia. Contrast this with an average $5 to $7 per pack in the States or a whopping 5.75 pounds per pack in the UK, or nearly 15Euros in Scandinavia.

This isn’t saying that the Philippine government is pro-smoking. In fact, quite the contrary. The smoking laws are being broadened, advertising prohibited in many places, and a law has been proposed to start putting the same horrid pictures on cigarette packs that you see in Thailand, Hong Kong, and Singapore, among other places. However, with such a large percentage of the population being smokers, combined with general Filipino “live and let live” attitudes, militant anti-smokers will have problems here… That statement is virtually guaranteed.

I was not born under a rock. I know all of the health risks. I do not smoke anywhere near my son. I am generally a considerate smoker out in public. However, If this article seems a bit sarcastic, it is because, quite frankly, I get fed-up with the “holier than thou” attitudes of the smoking Nazis in the United States, and especially the UK. These are normally the same people who drive everywhere they go, putting far more pollutants in the air than my cigarette.

So, for all the smokers who read this, here’s my list of airports that I know of where you can still smoke after security, followed by a hint for airports like JFK and LHR where it is forbidden (Scoff away, Law!)

Asia: MNL, CEB, TPE, KHH, ICN, PUS, NRT, KIX, FUK, PVG, CAN, HKG, SGN, HAN, BKK, MHF, BWN, KUL, SIN, CDG, SUB, MYY, BOM, DEL, ISB, KHI, DUB, MCT, SHJ, AUH, BAH, DOH, KWI, RUH, AMM. (Not allowed… Istanbul, and Beijing, unless they changed back this year)
Australia and NZ: None
Europe: HAM, ZRH, GVA, FCO, FRA, MUC, MAD
USA: MIA, IAD, SDF, STL, DFW (American Lounge only), TPA, RDU, SJU (They closed the areas in Las Vegas).
South America: Every airport I’ve ever been to there allows smoking, except in Brazil.

Stuck wrong side off passport control on a long transit and jonesing for a nicotine fix? Handicapped toilets make a convenient place to grab a quick smoke, since the doors generally lock (Don’t try this at LGW… they are alarmed there). Also, another alternative is to stock up on dip or chew and grab a Styrofoam cup (Both of which are NOT common in Asia, so if you chew and are moving or traveling here, better stock up at duty free or search online for a tobacconist). That also works for most airplanes except those owned by Delta (Where they prohibit it for some reason.)

Mama Sally: A Good Old-Fashioned Horse Trader

Despite the mother-in-law jokes that have been around since time began, I like my Mother-in-Law. Really. I’m not kidding. Meet Sancha Carrao, or Mama Sally as she is better known.

Mama is nearly 70, though no-one will say how old she is, and very traditional and set in her ways. She speaks very little English, but we can communicate easily enough if Rebecca is around. She has very simple wants and needs: Roof over her head, some food in her belly, the occasional pack of cigarettes, and her children provided for. That’s all. She is nearly impossible to shop for: What do you get the person who has nothing and wants nothing? (We’ve given up on this front… It took our wedding to get her to allow us to buy her a new blouse and shoes. She said that she had no need for such frivolous things!) Mama grew up in the province, and has lived there her whole life, except when she went to school in Manila, where she worked as a clerk in National Bookstore, over 50 years ago.

In the Philippines, age means everything… Respect for age lies at the very heart of the family and social structures here, particularly in the provinces. Mama is the matriarch of the Carrao family, and her influence in town is somewhat substantial. When I first met Mama, Rebecca told me to offer “Mano Po” to her and sort of watch what I said. The reason was that if, when we met, Mama did not approve of me, for whatever reason, Rebecca would have broken everything off with me, regardless of her feelings. Age equals wisdom in the Philippines, and wisdom demands respect. Thus, in Becky’s mind, she would have had no other choice but to bend to Mama’s wishes. Indeed, just last month, even though she is over 40, Rebecca was reprimanded for wearing a skirt that was above her knee. Mama thought it was improper for a married woman to be wearing such things. So, Becky went inside and changed into jeans (But she looks good in anything… She certainly has the bum for tight jeans.)

Mama is superstitious, like most people in Abulug, with a very deep Catholic faith. She is a big believer in the miracles at Piat, insisting that she was cured of dengue (Fever, as she called it) after praying to Our Lady. Rebecca’s father died over 40 years ago, killed while dynamite fishing (Two of her uncles were seriously hurt and almost also died), and Mama has an air of sadness about her. I don’t think she ever fully recovered from Becky’s father’s death. Indeed, for many years after he died, Rebecca was largely raised by her grandparents and uncles, since her mother sort of withdrew from life in general.

Since we moved to the Philippines, we have tried to get Mama to come down to Manila, so her and Becky could spend some time together. No dice… She is too firmly set in her ways. Abulug is home, it is where she was born, and where she will die. However, last visit, we were able to convince her to go to Tuguegarao with us for a day of shopping, which is where this story really begins.

We got to Tuguegarao, and Rebecca and Mama humored me by letting me have a “Kano” lunch of Greenwich pizza. We bought all kinds of vegetables at the market, shoes for the kids in Abulug, and were headed home. As I’m passing through Iguig, Mama says, “John… stop the truck!” She was really excited. She saw the roadside stand set up where they were selling brand new bolos. Her eyes lit up and a big smile crossed her face. I said, “Mama, do you need some?” She gets out of the car, almost as fast as I can stick 1,000 pesos into her hands. Rebecca jumps out, too, after sticking Juanito in my lap.

Now, by “bolos”, I am referring to the locally made variety… Cut from an old truck chassis, handles made from an old tire, and ground to a razor sharp edge by a grinding wheel. The stand had around 15 different types of bolos, in all manner of shape and size, for different tasks. Some curved like a sickle, for harvesting rice. Others with a really curved, nasty looking blade, for slaughtering pigs. Yet another on the end of a 2 meter handle for cutting down buko or other fruits. Yet still another shaped somewhat like a tomahawk, for chopping wood or meat. Finally, a long, curved blade for hacking through brush and jungle.

Mama picks up each bolo with an expert eye, testing the edge with each one. The maker calls one of his sons over, who then puts a bolo between his teeth, scurries up the nearest palm tree, and cuts bukos down. He slides back down and gives a buko to Mama, who then proceeds to test the bolo out. Satisfied, the negotiations begin, taking around 10 minutes. Rebecca returns to the car and tells me “Mama is buying one of each.” I give Becky another 1,000, and she goes off. When I see them wrapping the bolos in newspaper, so I load them into the truck (We ended up with 12, at 100 pesos each.) Mama came back with a big smile on her face, happy as a clam. Seems that the maker saw the truck, with me in it, and wanted to charge her Kano pricing… Mama would have none of that. She bargained him below the normal price. I would trust her to negotiate anything (Becky learned from the BEST!)

I’ve come to regard Mama as family… Yeah, she’s set in her ways, but I can learn a lot from her. She has stories about the old days and the old ways that are fascinating, and she still lives pretty much the same way to this very day. Indeed, I am very lucky to have such a Mother-In-Law.

Good Banking News for American Expats

I’m traveling in the States this week, and I had to go to the bank yesterday in order to wire Rebecca some money for bills at the house and the fish ponds. I had a most pleasant surprise when I got to the Bank of America office in Miami. In fact, this was the only pleasant surprise I have ever had at any bank!

On LiP, there have been numerous articles about accessing your money from the Philippines, and even more inquiries from those hoping to move to the RP in the near future. Everyone has to make a living and making banking arrangements before moving is one of the most important tasks you have to finish before moving.

In my case, Rebecca holds a Philippine account, and I have accounts in the States and in Abu Dhabi. Previously, I transferred cash between accounts primarily by using ATMs. This normally worked OK, but I ran into problems with daily withdrawal limits and it could be quite cumbersome if I needed more than 20,000 pesos at a time or the machine ate my ATM card (This happened at an HSBC machine and it took them over 2 months to get me a replacement card… They are now on my permanent list.)

The money laundering and tax evasion reporting laws made ordering wire transfers between accounts in different countries from US-based accounts very difficult, requiring an order in-person at a bank branch (Impossible from the Philippines), or a pre-approved wire transfer order submitted ahead of time, and entered into the bank’s system. This year, the law changed requiring banks to perform these functions electronically, and it now becomes possible to easily request a wire transfer when you are outside the United States. In fact, the surprise at Bank of America was that they are now requiring all wire transfer requests be made online, and they can no longer be effected in person at the branch. Bank of America’s new policy is that unverified transfers can be made up to $1,000 limit with no verification online, and with no limit after a simple online verification that is completed online at the time of the first transfer and takes about 1/2 a day to complete!  The cost of each transfer, no maximum limit, is $30. Needless to say, this new procedure makes my life much, much easier. It now means that all my financial transactions can be done online, shifting sufficient funds between the States, the Middle East, and the Philippines to pay all my bills, no longer needing to use repeated ATM transactions (At least $30 in fees for over $1,000) or visits to Western Union, and so on.

The branch manager stated that Bank of America was the first to offer this service, but she expected that most US banks would soon be following suit in the near future. I personally liked Bank of America’s online banking system, since it was easy to use and quite comprehensive. In fact, I was able to set up the accounts online, simply submitting a signature card when I was back in the States to get everything started. Before I found this out this week, things had gotten to the point that I was seriously considering opening an offshore account in the Bahamas or Macau, simply because of the hassle of transferring money from US banks.

So, for those moving here in the near future, or for those who are already here (set it up next visit back), this option for managing your money in two separate countries now appears to be the easiest, cheapest, and most efficient method of managing your money.

My Japanese Colleagues’ Lambanog Experience

This week, I had some meetings in Japan. The project I’m working on is quite large, in the hundreds of millions of dollars range, and one of the key people involved is moving to a different company. The situation was quite tense, not caused by myself or my company, but involving one of our partner firms on this project. Without getting into too many of the grisly details, this situation really exposed the drawbacks of not being familiar with Asian business culture. There were promises made, hurt feelings, and loss of face, exposing this project to failure before it even gets off the ground.

In my background, my work ethic has always been that I jump into the fray and help out wherever I’m needed… I don’t get wrapped up in titles and roles. Indeed, nearly ten years ago when I first started working with my company, I saw a pile of rubbish sitting in a corner of the office. Rather than call someone to clean it up, I grabbed a box and started cleaning up the mess. My boss walked in, sees me doing janitorial work, and tells me: “John, always remember this… You are paid to think… NOT to do. I appreciate the fact that you are a team player, but your time is too valuable to be helping the cleaning staff!” At the time, I think my nose got a little out of joint. As things have progressed over the years, I have gradually come to see his point. So, my role, as project manager, is to get things moving again and play peacemaker. In my experience, the best way to soothe hurt feelings is to gather everyone together informally, supply plenty of alcohol, and sort everything out (Works every time!).

Therefore, I made a stop in Japan on the way to the States, called everyone into the meeting, and picked up a bottle of 170 proof Lambanog on the way out of town. My colleagues in Japan booked dinner at a restaurant in Kobe that only serves Kobe beef. Your menu choices are beef, beef, or beef… Only the quantities vary, and truly the highest quality meat on the planet. I brought the alcohol, and made a deal with the bartender to make a Filipino version of a famous South American drink… A Pisco Sour. In my mind, Pisco tastes a lot like Lambanog, so we created a new drink in keeping with the Philippines’ Hispanic heritage.

Lambanog is uniquely Filipino, and is made from coconuts that are distilled into a type of alcohol, vaguely resembling tequila or vodka. Informally it is called coconut or tuba wine… The difference between tuba and lambanog is distillation: Tuba is fermented but lambanog is distilled and very potent. Rebecca’s relatives make lambanog up in Abulug, sweetening it (or “Aging” it, as they call it) with Juicy Fruit chewing gum and raisins for around two months. Let me tell you that this aging is important. I’ve tried it right out of the still, and ANY mellowing that is done to the liquor helps greatly. Think the characteristics of drinking a shot of a fine, vintage paint thinner and you’ll quickly get the idea. Lighting a cigar near the still is also not a good idea, and you could probably pour this stuff in your car’s fuel tank and it would combust just like petrol!

I start the meeting, everyone lays their cards on the table, and by the time dinner is over, plied with excellent food and alcohol, everybody is friends again and working hard to get this project moving. So, by the end of the night, everybody is also a bit loopy from these Lambanog Sours (and whiskey and beer). So, I can thank a little bit of Filipino tradition and culture for saving my project. If you want to try these at home, here’s the ingredients… They are really good, tasting something like a margarita, with a frothy head on top:

• 2 shots of Lambanog (I don’t like weak cocktails, so 2 shots… You could lessen the amount a bit.)
• 1 shot Lime Juice
• 2 sugar cubes
• 1 egg white

Fill a shaker with crushed ice, and shake everything together until frothy
Pour into a rocks glass, lime and sugar on the rim
Sprinkle a bit of ground cinnamon on top, and voila!

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