Whatta Pizza!

Today’s Guest Article is from Bob in New York.  Bob is a regular reader and participant on the Live in the Philippines Web Magazine.  I have actually known Bob for several years now, since he first started considering making a trip to the Philippines.  Bob and I first touched base through my Mindanao Magazine Website, because Bob wanted to get the “straight scoop” about the safety of a foreigner visiting Mindanao.  Take it away, Bob!

It has been said by many people, those that live in New York City and many tourists and visitors say  ” you just can’t beat a New York Pizza .”  Well, in many respects that may be true, although I think I had my best Pizza Experience in Iligan City, Philippines.

Several months ago  by Internet I learned of a new Pizza place in Iligan that offers  (among many other varieties)  a  36 inch diameter Pizza!  One look at the preview pics of the place and that was near the top of my list of places to visit this year.  I got some of my friends together and we went to  Calda Pizza in Barangay Pala-O on a Saturday night during my visit.  The tables are outdoors on a large lot.  Picnic type tables with umbrellas over them and wide enough to accomodate at 36 inch pizza.   Being a Saturday night the place was full although it only took a few minutes for a table to become available.

I placed the order  for the ” Hawaain Style ” Pizza as that is what my friends agreed upon and for myself just about any variety would please me.  I just had to have one of those 36 inch Pizzas!   This was the largest pizza  (regularly on a menu)  I had ever experienced!

The cost of the pizza was 1000.10  pesos for the one that I ordered.  It was freshly prepared and brought to our table in about 25 minutes.  Too big to be sliced in a more traditional way,  the slices are squared. It was well prepared and attractively served and tasted good.  Calda Pizza, a great place for Pizza lovers,  for those on a  ” Weight Loss Diet ” be forwarned!  LOL

A resto-bar in Iligan I had seen pictures of many times but had not had the chance to enjoy is a place called  “ The Iliganon. I went there one afternoon with some of my Iligan friends and upon arrival I noticed something I had not seen in pictures taken previously and posted on the internet.  The Iliganon resto-bar had added Pizza to their menu.  After my pleasurable pizza experience at Calda Pizza,  I really wanted to try something more traditional at The Iliganon.

Not being familiar with the names of many of the traditional menu items, I saw something which I pictured in my mind as being some kind of steak (a nice jucy tenderloin, Sirloin etc.).  We also looked at the Pizza Menu.  When our food was served, I found the item I ordered looked like small strips of beef, coated in something like bread crumbs along with some kind of buttery sauce to dip the strips in.   I realize that portions of food there may appear much smaller than you would get at a USA Restaurant or Diner and I also knew that this item would leave me hungry.  I suggested to my friends that maybe we should try Pizza at  The iliganon too so we ordered a large one just to try it.

I had finished the beef item I had ordered just in time for the pizza to be placed at our table. I picked up the first slice, took one bite out of it and then another.  Without hesitation I said to my friends  “I think we better order another one of these Pizzas!”  I had not tasted pizza like this in decades,  yes it was  THAT  Good!

By the time the second pizza was brought to our table the first one had been devoured by myself and my friends, along with the other food we had ordered.  This is sure a place I will visit each time I go to Iligan!

So there you have it,  my Iligan Pizza Experience.  The  Biggest  (Calda Pizza)  and the very best  (Iliganon Resto-Bar).

For me,  yes, Iligan City can beat a New York Pizza!

Visas for Filipinos

Having written on LiP for the last year and a half, one of the most common categories of question I see is about the topic of Visas. What is a visa? Well, when you arrive in a country, the stamp they place in your passport is a visa… It states that you are approved to remain in a country for a specific period of time, along with any limitations of any activities you are allowed to do, for instance tourism, business, and so on. In essence, it grants you permission to visit and for what purpose. Some countries issue visas on arrival, some may require no visa for citizens of certain countries, and some require a visa to be in possession before travel. A visa is NOT a guarantee of entry to a country… Most countries give their border officials a wide latitude in determining whether or not you are permitted entry. In some countries, particularly in the developing world, visas make up a source of revenue for the government. In fact, a simple tourist visa to some countries, Including the US, can often run into the hundreds of dollars.

The Philippines is actually quite liberal when it comes to visa-on-arrival entry. There are very few countries’ passport holders who are required to obtain a visa in advance of arrival. Most US, Canadian, UK, or Schengen passport holders have relatively few countries where visas are required in advance, and travel is relatively easy. This is NOT the situation for most Filipinos, however. Most foreigners who marry Filipinos or get into relationships with Filipino citizens quickly discover that it is not easy for Filipinos to travel to many countries. Indeed, when my company was deciding where to locate its’ Asian office, one of the primary deciding factors against deciding to locate it in the Philippines was the inability for Filipino technicians and engineers to easily travel to Taiwan, Japan, Korea, or the United States. Why is that?

Well, like it or not, true or false, there are a number of reasons:

1. The Philippines has developed a reputation as a source for cheap labor, taking jobs away from local citizens.
2. The Philippines has a reputation as a source of mail-order brides, sex tourism, and human trafficking.
3. The Philippines is often regarded as a source of drugs or as a trans-shipment point for drugs.
4. The terrorist or separatist groups that are still active in the country.
5. The large numbers of Filipinos that enter developed countries on tourist visas and overstay their visa illegally and do not return to the Philippines (This is cited as a primary reason for the difficulty in Filipinos obtaining US Visas.).

I have read that between 70% and 90% of all tourist visa applications from Filipinos are denied. Even if that number is inflated, that is a huge percentage. So, you meet a person who is a Philippine citizen, get engaged, and want him or her to go visit the States to meet the family… Just buy them a ticket and no problem… Right? Wrong. OK… You’ll “sponsor” your wife and write an affidavit of financial support. Also wrong. In fact, marriage to a US citizen is not even a guarantee that a visa will be granted. What immigration looks for is intent to LEAVE the United States. Stable job. Bank account with a few hundred thousand pesos. Owning land here. Having electric and other utilities in their own name. How many average Filipinos do you know who can PROVE these things? For expats that intend to live in the Philippines permanently, these types of tourist visa applications are often viewed suspiciously by DHS in the States. Why wouldn’t you want a K-3 to live there permanently? Something to consider before moving to the Philippines.

Well, what about travelling within Asia? For instance, I would LOVE to have Rebecca travel to Japan with me. Problem is, Japanese visas are notoriously difficult for Filipinos to obtain. It is just not worth it for all the hassles just for a trip of a couple of days.

Now, often, Philippine passport holders getting just ONE of the major visas (US, Canada, Schengen, UK, Japan) in their passport makes the other visas a sort of “rubber stamp”. In other words, having a US visa makes a Schengen visa much, much easier to obtain, being less likely to be denied. For Rebecca and I, not intending to live in the US permanently, as of now, a tourist visa (B1) for the US is our best option. We were in process before Juanito entered the picture, and we dropped the process until his paperwork is done and we can travel together. The US Embassy in Manila becomes a necessary evil in this regard, and the process is neither easy, nor quick. The first time we scheduled Rebecca’s interview, the web site stated within 7 days… The actual time was 4 months later. Is it frustrating? You bet. Especially when you are legally married. But, you have no other options, so you grit your teeth, grin it, and bear it.

So, you are living here, and want to take a vacation trip with your Filipino spouse. Where can Filipinos travel without a visa in advance? The list below was shamelessly copied from Wikipedia, but is accurate, to the best of my knowledge. Filipinos can travel to a fair number of countries, as is noted on the list. However, most destinations in Latin America or the Caribbean require a transit through the US, which, after 9/11, requires a visa for transit, so they are effectively closed to visa free travel (in practice, if not in law.)

Visa-free travel

It is estimated that 62 countries and territories granted visa-free or visa-on-arrival access to Philippine passport holders, while 41 countries and territories are visa free accessible (visa on arrival for free counted). Visa issued prior to arrival or pre-arrangement required for countries or territories not mentioned below.

Africa
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Burundi
visa issued upon arrival [2]

Cape Verde
visa issued upon arrival [3]

Comoros
A free 24 h transit visa issued upon arrival at the airport. Within 24 hours this must be converted into a full visa at the immigration office in Moroni (fee payable) [4]

Djibouti
10-day visa issued upon arrival for DJF3,000; 1-month visa issued upon arrival for DJF5,000 [5]

Egypt (South Sinai only)
14-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [6]

Gambia
At port of entry passport 24-72 h transit pass is issued. This must be converted into a full visa valid up to 1 month at the immigration department in Banjul (fee payable) [7]

Kenya
3-month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [8]

Madagascar
90-day visa issued upon arrival for MGA140,000 [9]

Morocco
3 months [10]

Mozambique
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$25 [11]

Saint Helena
visa issued upon arrival

Seychelles
1 month [12]

Tanzania
visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [13]

Togo
7-day visa issued upon arrival [14]

Uganda
6-month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [15]

Zambia
3 month visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [16]

Asia
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
ASEAN

Brunei Darussalam
14 days [17]

Cambodia
21 days [18]

Indonesia
30 days [19]

Laos
30 days [20]

Malaysia
1 month [21]

Singapore
30 days [22]

Thailand
30 days [23]

Vietnam
21 days [24]

Non-ASEAN

Armenia
120-day visa issued upon arrival for AMD 15,000 [25]

Azerbaijan
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$100 [26]

Bangladesh
90-day visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [27]

Georgia
3 month visa issued on arrival for US$10 ~ US$200 [28]

Hong Kong
14 days [29]

Iran
15-day visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [30]

Israel
3 months [31]

South Korea (Jeju Island only)
30 days [32]

Macau
30 days [33]

Maldives
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [34]

Mongolia
21 days [35]

Nepal
15/30/90 day visa issued upon arrival for US$25/40/100 [36]

Sri Lanka
30 days [37]

Timor-Leste
30-day visa issued upon arrival for US$30 [38]

Europe
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Kosovo
90 days [39]

Oceania
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Cook Islands
31 days [40]

Fiji
4-month Visitor’s Permit issued upon arrival (free of charge) [41]

Marshall Islands
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [42]

Federated States of Micronesia
30 days [43]

Niue
30 days [44]

Palau
30-day visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [45]

Samoa
60-day Visitor’s Permit issued upon arrival (free of charge) [46]

Tuvalu
1-month visa issued upon arrival (free of charge) [47]

Vanuatu
30 days [48]

North America
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Bermuda
6 months [49]

Costa Rica
30 days [50]

Dominica
21 days [51]

Haiti
3 months [52]

Nicaragua
90 days [53]

Saint Kitts and Nevis
14 days [54]

Saint Lucia
6-week visa issued upon arrival for US$50 [55]

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
1 month [56]

Turks and Caicos Islands
30 days [57]

South America
Countries and Territories Conditions of access
Bolivia
59 days [58]

Brazil
90 days [59]

Colombia
90 days [60]

Ecuador
90 days [61]

Peru
90 days [62]

Suriname
120 days [63]

Our trip to Manila Ocean Park

Did you know that Manila has a brand new aquarium? Well, it does, down off Roxas Blvd, near Luneta Park. Manila Ocean Park partially opened last year, and we decided to spend the day down there, followed by lunch at the Harbor Side restaurant.

Manila Ocean Park is owned by a Chinese firm that operates aquariums in Mainland China, and they are in the midst of developing an ocean themed entertainment complex right on the bay, eventually including a bigger aquarium, shopping mall, and hotel. At this point in time, just the aquarium is open, and they have done a pretty nice job on it, if a bit pricey by Manila standards.

So, we decided to take Juanito to see the fish, even though he is still a bit young for this type of thing. He really seemed to enjoy it, though. The fish were really active, and the viewing areas had little ledges so he could stand next to the glass. Admission is a whopping 400 pesos each…AND, they “nickel and dime” you once inside, like most theme parks and so on… pretty steep for most families in Manila, but there was certainly a full house. The animals also all seemed to be well cared for, as opposed to several of the zoos and such in this country. When the aquarium is completely finished, it will be the largest aquarium in SE Asia, and one of the largest in all of Asia. They are currently building a Whale Shark tank and a dolphin tank. Both of which will be pretty huge, in terms of size. One really nice thing about Ocean Park is that nearly all of the fish on exhibit are native to the Philippines. That’s right… almost every one of the thousands of fish in the tanks are from here, making a really big impression about how rich the sea life in these islands is and how colorful it can be.

When you arrive, you enter a “take a number” queue, like most of the banks here, in order to buy your tickets.  Bit confusing, but took only about 15 minutes with a large crowd there. As soon as you enter, you go into a “jungle area”, with crocodiles and large freshwater fish. This is the only part that is NOT handicapped accessible. We found this out trying to push Juanito’s stroller. There is a way around the jungle steps for strollers and wheelchairs, but I checked the stroller and just carried my son (It was easier to pick him up so he could see that way, anyway). From the jungle area, you go to a large “touch tank”, where kids can pick up and hold different types of fish. From there, you enter two very large galleries of large fish tanks, some containing very rare and endangered species, before entering the centerpiece tank, which is one of the large tunnels going through the middle of the tank.  This is also where the crowds are, though there are plenty of seats to sit and just watch the fish and the “mermaids” swimming around in the tank (Like Weeki Wachee in Florida). At the end, there is a fish spa, where you sit at the edge of a tank with your legs in the water and surgeon fish eat all the dead skin off of your legs. This costs extra, and we had Juanito with us, so we passed (He liked seeing the fish and was smiling and giggling the whole time, but he’s still pretty young for much more that 45 minutes or so.) Also, when you leave, the journey through the gift shops and the middle of the restaurants.

All in all, you could spend a couple of hours there, and since this is the only facility like this in the Philippines, most Filipinos have never seen anything like it before. Rebecca had only been to one aquarium (In Hong Kong last year) and our maid was simply dumbfounded that such a place could even be built! Though I’ve been to many aquariums before, it was still a nice way to spend an afternoon in Manila, and if you still have energy, Luneta Park and Intramuros are right nearby, as is Mall of Asia!

So, we bypass the fast food option and head next door to the Harbor Side restaurant, built on a pier sticking out in Manila Bay. The place has been there for many years (40, I think), and has good Pinoy food, mostly seafood, and wonderful views of the bay and Roxas Blvd, with fantastic ocean breezes… You really feel that you leave Manila, though you are only 100m from Roxas.

All in all, a very pleasant day with my family, before heading out on the road again! Give it a try next time in Manila! Some pictures:

Up North: UPDATE

So very much can and does happen in three months time.  Has it been three months already?  Let’s check the calendar and see.  We arrived home in mid-July and November is replacing October on the calendars.

Yes, I guess we have been here for about three and a half months – time for an update on what could and did happen.   There have been dry, sunny days as well as typhoon-induced windy and rainy days.  There have been good days, great days, and days better left to history alone.  

I’ll highlight the better-known (and reported) incidents.  They are, however, just the tip of this tropical iceberg called Live in the Philippines, Up North.

-:-

HEADLINE:  Katulong – Lost and Found!

As you may know, the katulong who had taken care of our house in our absence, greeted us when we arrived, and helped us unpack is no longer in our employ.  She left us for that “higher calling” of love and marriage, and appears to be getting along well in that endeavor.  After what felt like an eternity of searching, we employed a new, part-time katulong.

An Ilocano proverb fits our situation pretty well:  “Ti napíli makapíli ti kuggangí.”  [He who is choosy often picks the worst.]

So far, so good:  our new katulong is learning the ins and outs of the job and of our expectations.  Sure, as with all new employees, there have been a few hiccups.  We solved those with improved communications, explaining the job’s requirements and limits.  You can’t do well if you don’t know what it is you are to do! 

Progress was positive, then what I believe was the inevitable happened.  You see, our katulong is a fisherman’s wife and has lived in poor fishing sitios and puroks all her life.  Not only was she learning how to keep house for us, she was learning how to keep house, period.  (It’s the often-observed result of a culturally pleasing affirmative answer whenever most pinoys/pinays are asked if they can do something.  “Can you do the work of a katulong?”  “Oh, yes!”)  She now says that we “may not be seeing her for a little while.”  (Translation:  “I give up; I’m quitting!”)

So, it will be back to “search mode” for baket ko (asawa ko) [my wife].  She still has some prospects lined up, and I’m still partial to fried Spam & rice, so things will work out.  (A little cuter this time, honey!)

-:-

HEADLINE:  “The ‘BRO” & Internet Connectivity

Another search, this one a little more adventurous, resulted in putting us “on-line” and connecting us with the world via the Internet.  We sought out, found and obtained “broadband” service through SMART Bro.  Though fate stymied my further search for the “Share It” router and its 2Mbyte service, I remain happy with what service I have.  After all, I have “The ‘BRO’s” word that this higher speed service, which has yet to make its way to the smaller municipalities of outlying provinces, will be available next year.  In addition, I’m sure I could say that my current service is faster than “dial-up” if I had landline telephone service for comparison.

Sure, as with all new systems, there have been a few hiccups.  (I’m getting a sense of déjà vu – seems I’ve seen that somewhere before.)  Ever since the seven-day brown-out that accompanied and followed the show-stopping, three-time appearance of Typhoon Peping in early October, my connectivity has been spotty at best.  (Okay, Paul, enough with all of those hyphenated-words . . . now stop that!)  Service finally came to a halt some nights ago.  A call on the SMART Bro Hot Line resulted in the scheduling of a visit by a crack SMART Bro Tech Team on Saturday, same week.  (The little truck appeared at noon.  Manolito, Mo-Mo and Jackie-Boy had returned and they repaired a bad connection to the feed-cable inside the antenna unit.  THANK YOU, SMART Bro.) Coincidently, the LBC courier showed up the day before the “halt” with the SMART Bro bill that is due in two days’ time.  Do I detect an adventure (”turn over the money and will give you back your service”) story here somewhere?

-:-

HEADLINE:  Rainy Season Nixes Movement

Wet weather continues to keep us close to home though, as reported here, we managed to venture out a couple of times.  This past week has been a little drier than most.  What that really means is that the rains start a little later in the day.  Planning trips or outings that will take longer than half a day is not yet possible, as, by the time you know the weather will hold for the day, there isn’t much time left in the day for the outing.

Sure, as with all . . . (insert your favorite “hiccup” déjà vu line here).  A few outings started out dry but ended up with our damp turn around for home.  There are plenty of dry days ahead of us, so those trips and outings (and their resulting articles and reports) will be on the back burner for the not so dry now.

-:-

HEADLINE:  Wee Hour Wee Visitors

It appears that we had another visit from the “small people,” as our nephew refers to them.  I’ll refrain from saying the name “Aeta,” as I’ve since learned that they don’t really enjoy that label (ditto for “Negritos” or “Pugot”).  For lack of their proper tribal name, then, I’ll borrow on our nephew’s diplomacy and refer to them as “small people,” too.  The chronicler for this visit was our Auntie, the mother of the nephew who related the first visit.  Auntie was more forthcoming and timely in her report.

This episode involved only two small individuals for whom all of the neighborhood dogs barked as before (déjà vu for two?).  One of the two peered in through the gate while the other sat and enjoyed a smoke (Auntie believes it was a hand-rolled cigarette, or something of that nature, as this person’s hands were a bit busy prior to the smoke).  They stayed around for the duration of the latter’s moment of pleasure, only to hasten off again when they detected Auntie watchfully eying them.  She described them as short, stout, very dark almost black, very curly short hair, wearing shirts, shorts and slippers, and being very fleet of foot.  Having a longer look at the “small people” than her son had previously, Auntie was able to provide more detail in her descriptions of everything she witnessed.

Where was your humble columnist during this episode, you ask?  As before, here was a chance for a nocturnal, cultural adventure, AND I SLEPT RIGHT THROUGH IT!  Baket ko (Asawa ko) [My wife] now makes sure that any dog barking at night is answered by my sleepy-eyed gaze and investigation.

-:-

HEADLINE:  Three Strikes & You’re Out!

I guess this is the major story of our first three months.  Typhoon Peping took three good strikes at us, and then was out to sea for good.  It was very similar to my going through the same typhoon three times in five day’s time while stationed in Okinawa during the early seventies.  (What is it with all of this déjà vu stuff, anyway?  Am I repeating unlearnt history?)

My “Fascination with Rice” took a new turn.  The beautiful rice crop that was in the paddies took it kind of tough during those three passes.  Early estimated reports of damage were high, but farmers are replacing those estimates with lower ones.  There were three or four different plantings of the rice crop, with the most damage suffered by the youngest crop (last planted).  Its “flowering” is doubtful and it will most likely end up as just straw.

The first planted crop was close to harvest time, so it suffered “field loss” damage – some of the grains were blown off the plant, leaving others still attached a little weaker and prone to drop off “in the field.”  The result will be fewer grains harvested and marketed.

Damage to crops planted between the first and last is extremely hard to compute.  All crops planted were a hybrid version formulated to withstand excess water and storms.  Though some of these crops were “laid down” by the high winds, signs of resurrection are hopeful.  The worries here are just how long will standing water remain in the fields, will the rice grains fill out properly, will disease or pests infect the crop, etc.

No one will really know the total damage until after the final harvest.  Prices at the market for harvested, un-milled rice may go up a little and help offset the losses a little, but profit may still be a big squeeze for the farmers, not to mention the effects of rice availability, etc.

Personally, my “banana crop” loss is approximately 75%.  I lost one entire fruiting tree and half of the fruit of another.  The remaining fruit on the latter is yet to approach harvest time, so who knows what could happen.  The three typhoon passes also eliminated 100% of the eggplant that was almost ready for harvest.  Three of four malunggay trees snapped in half with most of the remaining leaves being lost to the wind as well (good thing we harvested leaves before the storm).  I still have five calamansi fruits on one bush, and a second bush is trying to recover from storm damage.

(Note:  At the time I am drafting this acticle, Typhoon Lupit [Ramil] is threatening to finish up the damage started by Peping, and throw in some of its own for good measure.  We can only hope it decides to wend its way north an miss The Philippines all together.   We’ll find out later this week just what are Lupit’s (Ramil’s) intentions.  You have to love living here and put up with its storms, or else leave.

Further update:  After snaking around the Philippine Sea for a week, it appears that Lupit had made an abrupt turn to the ENE, lost some of its power – being downgraded to Tropical Storm – and is headed for Okinawa and the Ryukyu Islands.  For this storm, waiting seems to be its worst aspect.  While six international weather services have amended their projections for Lupit to coincide with its current movements, they still warn that “the snake” could turn for us again as well as intensify prior to visiting.  That won’t happen as Lupit was last seen skirting up the coast of Japan, having lost a lot of its intensity and dispersing in cooler, northern sea waters as a low pressure area. 

Harvesting rice has become very hard work.  The fields are still flooded from all the rains, the rice plants are all soaked and heavily laden with moisture; and the cutting, carrying, threshing, etc. is more back-breaking than ever.  Reminds me of shovelling “wet” snow is winters past.

Oh yes:  Lupit hasn’t affected the remaining banana crop.  For the “Bananaphiles” out there, eight hands remain, each averaging between 14-16 fingers.)

-:-

That’s the UPDATE from Up North.  All in all, I make a poor farmer and a merely average resident.  I just hope my article writing is a little better.

Flying to Tuguegarao

Last month, I needed to go up to Abulug in order to pick up Rebecca and Juanito. We are back and forth to the province about every month, depending on what needs to be done up there. Over the course of this year, with Juanito’s adoption in progress and several land transactions (along with a squatter problem), we have had to go to Abulug more often than normal… And it usually involves things that Rebecca must do, rather than my being the helpful Kano husband. Abulug is 120 km away from the closest airport, in Tuguegarao. To get up there, there are three ways to go: Drive, bus, or Fly and drive. Each way of travelling has its’ own advantages and disadvantages, and we tend to use whichever method suits our needs for a particular trip. Of the three travelling methods, we use the bus the most, followed by me driving, and flying the least often.

Here’s how we travel, with the approximate costs, time, advantages, and disadvantages. I hope this is helpful to expats when deciding how to travel within the country… The relative advantages, disadvantages, and costs are roughly comparable throughout most of the country, regardless of  your destination. Note that we normally rent a car up North when I travel (Rebecca never learned how to drive)… At the end, I’ll detail how to do that in the province (No Avis or Hertz in most small provincial towns).

By bus:

Cost: Florida Lines, Cubao or Sampaloc to Tuguegarao, Aparri, or Ballesteros.

400 pesos each way, per person for Ordinary (Small seats, no aircon, many stops)… 12 hours to Tuguegarao, 16 to Aparri or Ballesteros.

650 pesos each way, per person for Deluxe (Same as Ordinary, but with padded seats, aircon, and video… Planned stops every 2-3 hours)… Same time as Ordinary.

850 pesos each way, per person, for Super Deluxe (Wide seats, aircon, videon, one stop or nonstop)… 9 hours to Tuguegarao. No Service to Aparri or Ballesteros. (FX, Jeepney, or drive from there, about 3 hours).

950 pesos each way, per person, for Sleeper (very comfortable Lie-flat seats, nonstop, only one bus per day to each origin station). 8-9 hours to Tuguegarao. No service to Aparri or Ballesteros. (FX, Jeepney, or drive from there, about 3 hours).

Rebecca has been taking the bus back and forth to Abulug from the time she was an infant. Note that there is normally no central bus station in Philippine towns (There used to be a Central terminal in Cubao during the Marcos years, but that has long since disappeared)… Each bus company operates its’own stations along their allotted routes. The locations of the station you depart from depend on where you are going and which bus company owns the route. For Tuguegarao, it is Florida Lines and Victory Lines, primarily, with a few smaller bus companies also. Once you ride a route, you learn where the stops are located for meals, though I must caution tender Western stomachs to be really careful when eating along bus routes. We always take the busses that leave in the early evening, travelling overnight, and arriving very early AM in Tuguegarao (or late AM in Ballesteros).

Advantages:

1. Virtually unlimited amounts of baggage (Generally, for two people, 3 bags / boxes per person… Over that, you buy a “seat” for your cargo, either officially, or unofficially by making a deal with the driver or conductor.) This is an advantage for us since there are times we may be carrying several hundred kg of “stuff” with us to the province.

2. Very cheap way to travel.

3. Ironically, very relaxing. The stops break up the trip, and, if travelling in daytime, a beautiful route with nice scenery.

Disadvantages:

1. It is a bloody long ride, and very hard day… Lose a day up and a day back. Except the sleeper bus, it can be difficult to get much sleep.

2. The bus drivers tend to set the aircon cold enough to hang meat in the bus (or freeze all testicular function).

3. We have had things stolen from baggage on the bus (While we were asleep… an Ipod and Cell Phone)… Keep valuables close at hand.

Driving:

Cost: I pay 2,000 pesos per day, plus petrol (one tank up and one tank back) for a Nissan Sentra (Private owner… Hertz and Avis average 3,500, but you are insured and not responsible for any damage… an issue. Read my earlier article about driving at night). (Average 10,000 pesos for short, up and back, trips… 3 days minimum).

Time: 14 hours minimum, each way (I made it once 13.5 hours, but in bad traffic, it also took 19 hours once.)

Advantages:

1. No need to rent a vehicle up North.

2. Lots of room for baggage and cargo.

3. Ability to stop whenever we want.

4. No problem on Juanito’s car seat.

Disadvantages:

1. Long, hard, drive, with few hotels along the way to sleep over. After going up and back, I need time to recover.

2. Dangerous at night.

3. More expensive.

Flying:

Cost: Despite the low fares advertised, it averages out at 5,000 pesos per person each way after taxes, departure fees, and taxi to the airport.

Time: 2 hours screwing around at the airport, 45 minutes flight time. Tuguegarao flights are ALWAYS late(Every time I’ve flown there, sometimes by up to 3 hours. Still need to get to Abulug after landing, so + 3 hours). Minimum time 6 hours.

Advantages:

1. Despite delays, quick and less stressful. Still have 1/2 day in Abulug on travel days.

2. Relatively comfortable.

3. Flights depart from NAIA Terminal 3… New and stress free.

Disadvantages:

1. Tight baggage weight / pc restrictions (This is a BIG issue with us). Restrictions are more strict on domestic flights.

2. Limited number of flights (One each daily, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific). The return flight turns around immediately, and each airline departs near the same time, so impossible to fly up and back the same day (You need minimum of one night overnight in Tuguegarao).

3. Most expensive way to travel.

4. Still need to get from Tuguegarao. (Going by FX averages 500 pesos for Filipinos each way, 1,000 pesos for Kanos each way…Unless you are a highly skilled negotiator… The drivers are all in Kahoots, so the rates are fairly standard, including Kano pricing).

Car Rental in Tuguegarao or Aparri:

As I mentioned above, I tend to rent a car when I go up to Abulug. There are a number of reasons behind this, not least of which is that since Rebecca’s mother does not own a car, there is usually some hauling and other tasks that need to be done up on the farm. Additionally, we tend to go to Tuguegarao and then shop, do other chores, before heading up to Abulug. A vehicle makes these tasks much, much easier. As I mentioned, there aren’t many car rental options outside of Manila, Cebu, Davao, and GenSan, so how do we rent a vehicle? Well, the answer is that we rent from Becky’s large, extended family. In Tuguegarao, we rent a Mitsubishi Pajero from an in-law at 2,500 pesos per day, plus petrol. In Aparri, we rent an FX from Rebecca’s uncle for 2,000 pesos per day, plus petrol. Filling the tank on each of these vehicles usually costs between 2,500 and 3,000 pesos for diesel. We are 100% responsible for any damage, regardless of fault (Even a flat tire… I had to get one fixed… You don’t just call Avis!)… Something to keep in mind before making these types of arrangements. Also, when you rent from Hertz or a company, the daily rate clock is 24 hours from when you pick up the car… Expect in these types of arrangements to pay an extra day over the time you rent, because they always count sun-up to sundown as a full “day” . Most Jeepneys and FXs can also be rented by the day, with driver, averaging 2,000 pesos for an FX or 1,000 pesos for a jeepney… The drivers wait for the busses and flights to arrive and congregate there at those times. You just need to ask around at the airport or bus depot… SOMEONE will rent to you there.

Hopefully, you found this article helpful before heading out into the sticks… Again, costs and times are relative, but having travelled in all three regions of the Philippines, they are relatively consistent in my experience.

Big Trouble for Tourists?

Lately, I have been watching a TV show that I downloaded from the Internet.  The name of the show is “Big Trouble in Tourist Thailand,” and it is a show from the Sky Network in the UK.  The show is about British tourists visiting Thailand, and some of the troubles they run into.

“But Bob,” you might be saying, “this website is not about Thailand,” and you would certainly be correct.  However, some of what I’ve seen on the show certainly applies in the Philippines.  And, I have seen things on the show that would be good lessons for the Philippines to put into practice, I believe.

As I am sure all readers know, Thailand is a place well known for partying, sex tourism, and other “revelry” that is not necessarily so wholesome.  Because of this type of expectation, many of the tourists that end up on this show have gotten themselves into some real trouble by being a little bit too involved in this type of lifestyle.

The show is a documentary type show, 100% authentic, not fiction, acting and such.

Now, what exactly is the TV show about?  Well, it is about the Thailand Tourism Police.  Thailand Tourism Police?  What’s that? Well, in Thailand, at least in certain parts of Thailand that are frequented by foreign tourists, the Thai Government has “Tourist Police” which are actually foreigners!

Yes, you read that correctly.  They have foreigners who are police that deal specifically with foreign tourists.  Based on what I have seen on the TV show, it appears that most, possibly all of the Tourist Police are British, but I can’t say for sure.  Since the show is done by a British TV Network, they may just be featuring the British who are participating in the Police.  Based on what has been said on the show, it seems that these foreign policemen are not paid, but do this on a volunteer basis.  They are long term expats who live in Thailand, and they have volunteered to Police foreigners who have come on holiday, or vacation in Thailand.

Why do they need foreigners for this?  Well, the reason is because many of the foreign visitors do not understand how things work in Thailand.  You know, I have explained many times how many foreigners don’t understand cultural aspects of life in the Philippines?  Same for Thailand.  Things work differently in these foreign countries.  What is common “back home” may actually be a crime here, or may cause friction with the locals, and could actually get the tourist killed.  For example, here in Asia, causing somebody to “lose face” could lead to your death.  By having foreign expats policing the foreign tourists, they can help explain to the foreigners in a way they can understand, and smooth over trouble before it starts, or at least before it gets too far out of hand.

As I have watched this show, my first reaction was that it was kind of weird, and not needed.  As I watched several episodes, though, I have come to the conclusion that such a program could be quite beneficial for the Philippines too.  I believe that it can offer several potential benefits for the Philippines:

1. For the expat who lives here and gets involved in assisting with such policing activities, it would help make them a part of the community in which they live, make them part of society.
2. The expat policeman could help the tourist stay out of trouble, or at least minimize it.  Doing this would help the Philippines gain a higher regard in the tourism community.  Instead of having people who got into a bad situation going around badmouthing the Philippines, you could potentially have people encouraging others to travel here and telling them that the Philippines goes out of it’s way to assist tourists in having a good time while still staying out of potentially dangerous situations.
3. It could help cut back on corruption in the Police Force.  Right now, a lot of foreign tourists believe that every Philippine Policeman is out to scam them.  If there is a “tourist policeman” who is an expat from the West, it would make tourists more confident that they will be treated fairly.

While the Philippines is certainly under no obligation to do a program like this, I believe that it might have merit, and could make the Philippines a more attractive tourist destination too.  It shows that the country is going to extra effort to help make foreign tourists feel comfortable and safe while visiting the country.

What do you think?  Have you seen the show?  Do you think this has merit?

Brief return to the UK

I have been staying in the Philippines on and off for about five years now and really love the people and the place. I have just returned to the UK for three weeks to help a friend move and to catch up on some legal stuff , and of course to catch up with old friends and the family too.

I kept my return to the UK very secret in order to surprise certain people, like my Mum who is 80 and was shocked to see me walk into her house announced a few days ago. The picture on her face was amazing, and i detected a real tear. Bless her. I will be catching up with her several times over the next few weeks, as we have three years to catch up on.

I also set up a surprise with two of my friends who turned up at another friends house for dinner , and then suddenly I pounced out and surprised them so much, and spent the next few hours in a boozy remembrance of our times together.

Both of my friends have been to the Philippines and are also coming back next year for another visit. Actually I am proud of the fact that they are coming over again because of me, and that they too have fallen in love with the country. I hope that one day both will join me in the country and marry a beautiful Filipino lady and settle down.

I also took a trip to my oldest friends and their kids, who are now adults, and spent a very emotional weekend with these people I have not see for three years. Yet on arrival to the house it felt I had only been away a few hours. A true test of friendship.

I should get commission from the Philippines Tourist Department as two of the family are going to come over next year too.

My time here is great and rewarding and its great to see some of the old friends. But I do not really belong here now, my heart is truly in the Philippines, as no matter how bad things are in the Philippines you will see a street full of smiles and big hearts. In the UK now its gloom and doom and the faces of the people in the malls are fall of sadness.

I cannot wait to get back to my new home country.

Off The Beaten Path

Just to the northeast of Saud Beach in the Ilocos Norte town of Pagudpud (often voted among Asia’s Best Beaches) is Sito Bimmanaaw, Caunayan Bay.  This bay was a very important site during the Second World War, though unknown to almost all.  A dwindling number of veterans and their families know and remember all too well, however.

It was here at Caunayan Bay that the U.S. Navy forged a bond of friendship with guerrilla fighters and “Bolomen.” The latter were ordinary citizen who resisted occupation forces through their assistance to the guerrillas. Bolomen were so named because their only weapons were bolos (a type of machete) and pointed bamboo lances. It is here that in 2007, a group comprised of the STINGRAY  Friendship Foundation, the National Historical Institute, and the Departments of Tourism and Education placed a memorial to that bond. Known as the “STINGRAY Memorial,” it commemorates the 20-some U.S. submarines that supplied the resistance fighters of Northern Luzon and performed other “classified” missions.

The memorial itself (named after USS STINGRAY) is constructed of marble, stone and pebble. A 500-kilo anchor sits atop it, signifying the anchor “cut loose” by the crew of USS STINGRAY (and eight other anchors similarly cut loose by their submarines) on one of their last missions.  This emergency action allowed USS STINGRAY (and the other eight submarines) to avoid detection and evade approaching Japanese vessels via a “quick get away.”

The memorial pays tribute to the guerrillas and Bolomen, and crews of the U.S. submarines who delivered arms, ammunition, medicine and supplies. An example is the above-mentioned mission of USS STINGRAY. It offloaded six tons of arms and supplies and a 15-man Fil-Am commando team just six weeks prior to the “return” invasion at Leyte. A Filipino veteran recalls that without those arms and supplies, they would not have been able to liberate Northern Luzon.

Getting to the memorial (a site that also is good for diving and surfing, conditions permitting) is a scenic trip in itself. The memorial sits in a 10-hectare coconut grove, along the white sand beach. Reaching the coconut grove requires a drive (or serious hike) from the National Highway on a semi-paved provincial road. The drive goes through a valley and over a “short” mountain heading toward the beach. There was no signage when we visited – just the road and the adventure of following it to its end at the coconut grove. The beach and the coconut grove are similarly scenic. Pristine waters lap the white-sanded shores.  Ten hectares of coconut trees provide wonderful shade from the heat of the sun as well as fresh coconuts.

Along the drive are beautiful vistas, and agricultural villages and fields. Carabao serve as tractor, truck and sports car here – they easily glide around some of the tighter curves in the road.

Additional pictures finish this article but not the story. More can be learned from the Bolomen website.

SuperFerry 9 tragedy

A few days have passed now since the Philippines was in mourning for the tragedy that happened near Zamboanga. The Aboitiz SuperFerry 9. The ship sailed from GenSan on the way to Zamboanga when it sank. The Ferry supposed to go to Iloilo too and  then final destination Manila.

A lot of people really are wondering right now what caused this tragedy. The weather was good when that ferry started to sail out of GenSan, and remained good. They are investigating right now. They said it could also be sabotage. They say too that it could be that a bomb was planted by somebody somewhere in the ship. The authorities right now have a lot to figure out.

I was just watching the TV and they showed the footage of the ship that’s tilting. Just thinking the fear of the people, the kids especially I really wanted to cry. I saw a foreigner he was injured trying to saved a kid. Unfortunately the kid died. He was really devastated. I felt that guy needs a lot of counseling.

A TV station showed a  couple that’s waiting in Manila for their son to arrive together with the aunt and the TV crew found the aunt and sadly the kid, he is one of the 9 people that died. Right now the owner of the SuperFerry sent their other boat to pick up the passengers and be brought to different places. Can you imagined the fear of these people to be riding again on the boat and sail to another place for hours. Kids might not even sleep. I felt sorry for them.

Right around that time the SuperFerry sank another  boat (motorboat)  from Jolo sank off Basilan Province. The coast guard said that the residents of the place rescued all the passengers of that said boat. The coast guard added that the boat sank because it was hit by the strong waves. They also said that the unregistered boat left Jolo, Sulu, without clearance. I hope they will investigate on that matter.

Now there are a lot of talks about these ship disasters in the Philippines. The people are trying to questions now (the in charge like the maritime) if they are checking closely the boat, ships big or small for proper papers. Cause it said too that over loading with passengers might be the cause of the SuperFerry to sink. I’m pretty sure in a month or so a lot of families will be filing charges for the death of their love ones. Hopefully they will have the result of the investigation then.

Seeing TV reports  968 passengers and crew members reported aboard SuperFerry 9 have been accounted for. Nine died and I think they said that 2 are still missing. I do hope that the families will have some closure soon.

A Trip to Pearl Farm

It seems like it has been forever since my wife and I took a vacation.  Somehow living over here day to day feels like one long giant vacation at first but then sooner or later you realize you are stuck in a day to day rotation of things to do, errands to run etc.  We all need a break sometimes and least living in the Philippines gives us so many more options than I had when I was in the US.

The Kadayawan festival was being celebrated right before I came home this year and unfortunately I missed it but it did give us an opportunty to avail of a promo at Pearl Farm Resort.  For those of you who don’t know, Pearl Farm is a 5 star resort located in Kaputian, Samal Island.  They have a pier in Lanang where you board the bangka for a 45 minute trip to the resort.  The promo that we decided to take advantage of included an overnight stay in one of the “Samal” houses and breakfast the next morning.

The trip over on the outrigger boat or “bangka” was spectacular.  We were able to enjoy beautiful weather and calm waters all the way down to the resort.  The guide told us that from time to time you can see bottle nosed dolphins and whale sharks in these waters but unfortunately none were to be seen this day.  Upon arrival at the dock you are greeted by the courteous staff and given a pinapple based drink and welcomed with the sounds of native music.  After checking in you are free to roam around the resort and see all it has to offer.

Boredom is not a word that you will be seeing in Pearl Farm.  You have the choice of 2 swimming pools and 4 beaches to swim in as well as a world class spa and exercise facilities.  From the beaches of Malipano Island,  just offshore of the resort, you can snorkel in some of the cleanest, clearest waters I have seen so far in the Philippines.  The waters around the resort are a sanctuary for native fish and you can swim over pristine coral reefs and enjoy literally thousands of tropical fish.  For those of you who are divers, 2 wrecks dating to World War II can be found offshore.

Mealtime is no small affair at Pearl Farm.  While our package included breakfast on the second morning, we had to pay for lunch and dinner which were P800 and P900 respectively.  For this amount you are treated to a 5 star buffet of Filipino foods. There is something for everyone and even if you are not particularly fond of native foods, you will not leave hungry.  I heartily recommend trying the bistek if they are serving it that day and for dessert they make a superb durian float although unfortunately this dessert is seasonal and not always to be found on the menu.

I am happy that my wife and I were able to take advantage of this special promo.  With room rates starting in the $120/night range exclusive of meals an overnight stay was a little too expensive for us to consider.  We had gone over in the past as part of the day trip which I heartily recommend to anyone wanting to visit the resort.  The fee for the day trip is P1,500 per person which includes ferry rides back and forth and a buffet lunch.  It is a once in awhile treat for us to visit Pearl Farm and every trip is remembered fondly.

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