Sunday, June 22, 2008
Climbing Mt Apo
Today’s Guest Blog is from Rick Bowden. Rick is a resident of Davao, and has been living here for about 6 months now. I have had the opportunity to visit Rick’s house and enjoy an evening with Rick, his wife and family, and had a wonderful time (don’t worry, Rick, we owe you a dinner at our house!). Rick recently climbed Mt. Apo, the tallest mountain in the Philippines
I achieved one of my aims in April this year by climbing Mt Apo.
Since I came to Davao first time in the year 2000 and seeing Mt Apo appear from the clouds at random places from all over the city and then finding out first that Mt Apo was the highest peak in the Philippines and secondly that a climb was physically possible, I wanted to do it. Various times I have read about the Apo climb on Bob’s blog, for example Ichi’s story about getting lost and having to turn his shirt inside out and from Macky’s comments, he has climbed (from memory) several times, so, when I came to Davao in January this year I decided I had to do it.
I have a young and fit brother in law Arnel, who was keen to accompany me, it was his first time too, to climb Apo and we were both willing but we needed some assistance, we needed help. We consulted with “Edge” outdoor pursuit, climbing shop in Matina and met Dom, who we hired as our guide. Dom is a young and fit athlete who I am pleased to know now as a friend but at the time, we were looking for guidance and a mentor in our quest, Ann (my wife) said he looked like a boy, I saw a competent young man, sorry Ann, I was right, he was perfect for us, a friend and guide and someone to rely on.
We talked about equipment and when to climb, which route to take and decided on Kidapawan trail in April. There are many routes up Mt. Apo, Arnel and I decided as first time climbers that the easiest would be best for us (it wasn’t easy) and so a weekend for the end of April was set. Being advised by Dom, we decided to take a local porter from Kidapawan, to help carry food and for extra security in case of sprained ankles or other more serious accident. Setting off at 4:00 am Thursday April 24th 2008, we made our way through Kidapawan to Lake Agko hot spring resort where we registered for the climb and hired “Lito” (Joselito) our porter, and off we set at approx 7:30 am.
I had talked to some experienced people before attempting Apo, like Henny, owner of De-Bonte Ko, who has climbed Apo many times and received some great advice and tips, but my first idea was to get fit and I had spent three months in the gym at Matina getting fit and I felt prepared. Dom, our guide is 22 years old with legs like pistons I was about to find out, Arnel is a naturally athletic 26 years old and Lito our porter in his early 30’s, but the porters are legendary and Lito walked up in either bare feet or flip flops and hardly needed a rest. That left me at 51 years of age, the old man of the party and by the end I needed every one of the 3 months sessions I had been through in the gym, it was tough.
The initial climb was pretty much straight up, through forests, ravines, through and inside river beds, with short rests on the way it took us 5 hours to reach Lake Binado and our first camp site. It was great to relax chill out and enjoy the cool air, Apo peak was a 2hr walk away. Arnel brought a Frisbee, he had seen pictures on the TV from Lake Binado and he was right there was a great Frisbee area; we played for hours in the afternoon, others joining in from time to time for the fun, a great way to unwind after the tough climb.
Dom was our chef, we had an early night and at first light we were up, breakfasted, packed up and on our way to the peak. During the first days climb there were not fantastic views because of climbing up gullies, through trees, the views were restricted. But from then on-climbing from lake Binado and upwards views were unrestricted and fabulous, but nothing compared with what was to come at the top.
We were there at the top for 10AM and in the clouds, it was cold, the wind was biting and jackets and gloves were required. At the top, there are a series of peaks, 9 I think, all of which are Mt. Apo and we spent the rest of the day climbing the various peaks for different views. The highlight was the view back down to Davao, where, Samal, Talikud and the city of Davao were clear and spectacular to see. People were looking up at us and this time, we were looking down on them and beautiful it was to see. We could view our part of the city, Bangkal and imagine where about our house was, quite a site.
We had a spectacular sunset but then next day, cloudy for the sunrise and so, no more views. You need some luck in the mountains to get the views, I have heard of some people climbing and then not seeing anything at the top at all as it is in clouds for the whole time.
I had managed the climb ok, keeping up with everyone, but on the climb down, the others all seemed in a hurry, for the first time we had heavy rain and it made the downward slope very slippery and my energy levels dipped sharply. Anyway we arrived soggy, damp but elated after a 5 hour “bolt” down the mountain. My first beer didn’t touch the sides.
It was a fantastic trip and I would recommend anyone to do it, but a few tips, first take a guide, second a local porter, for local knowledge, then talk to people who have done it (thanks again Henny for some valuable advice) to make sure you have the right equipment and lastly to enjoy it more I would recommend some training, it is fairly strenuous and that should not be ignored.
# 1 macky said:
congrats on the climb, rick. glad you finally made it up apo.
you’re right it’s not easy. i had a fit american cousin who went up & broke down in tears before they she made it to lake venado. turned out, she had envisioned the trek similar to american national parks with paved paths & convenient rest points. oops.
recently, mt apo’s been calling me again in my dreams. so i hope to go up a few more times once i get to move back there. my wife’s already told me to give her a time span before she send out the rescuers, haha.
i’m surprised you didn’t get good view on the second day at the peak. i always had a spectacular view as long as i timed it with the sunrise (i was told that the clouds are out of the way at this early time of the day, but i guess not).
congrats again, i hope you have more climbs in you.
# 2 rick b said:
Hi Macky
yes it was so very satisfying, and not surprised at the tears of your cousin, i didn’t want to scare people off with my description, becasue it wasn’t hell, it was fantastic, but the toughness of it should not be doubted.
Yes we were looking forward to the sunrise views, but the cloud was completely down and visibility was only 10 metres or so, but if you look at my galery (rick b) photos, we did have some grat sunset views the night before
The best thing about it was “doing it” and “the Views” and “the experience” and the comeraderie….met only friendly people all the way up and down and the exercise………
if i remember correctly Macky you climbed Apo more than once?, thanks for commenting, i look fwd to your comments on this blog, alwas positive. give me a shout if you are climbing again i may join you.
Macky is it Lake Benado or Venado as you have it, i have seen both written, are both correct?
# 3 Migs said:
Hi Rick! Thanks for sharing the fantastic and detailed chronicle of your trip. It must have been quite an achievement for you (esp. being the more “senior” member) and for the rest of the team. I would like to climb Mt. Apo someday, too, even if I don’t take the most challenging route. The important thing is to do something new - and take advantage of the beauty of the Philippines.
Congratulations to you! There must be a next time!
# 4 rick b said:
Yes Migs i recommend you to do it and like you say it did give me a buzz to keep up with the younger guys, but at the end i was “hanging on” a bit
next time Migs, i will give you a shout, maybe we can go together, i can be your guide on the trip!!
# 5 john said:
Well done my friend. I admire you doing that I just know I am not fit enough to do that yet. Give me another 12 years
# 6 macky said:
hi rick b - Yes, I’ve been up there a few times but it was a very long time ago. I do want to go back up & maybe we can trek up together when that times comes.
On the Venado/Benado question: I know it as Lake Venado but the letter “v” usually comes out as a “b” sound to many locals.
I’m not sure if you know, but the view of the lake is very much different in the later part of the year. The lake becomes much larger. Most of the dry area is covered in water, very different compared to summer when there is a large camping area. I haven’t seen this, but it certainly piqued my curiosity.
# 7 rick b said:
John
Come on now you can pound the track and get into great shape, 12 months should be no problems, 12 years is well……
Macky
No, i didn’t know that about the lake but it is stagnent water and so run off will make a big difference to the levels, there was a perfect camping BIG area which did look as if it could be submerged in the lake at certain rainfall times
And yes i know the “V” and “B” confusion, it usually gets me that one, not important though they seem either / or, or on the other hand interchangable
There were plenty of older people like me and older stillthat i encountered on my trip up the mountain, they just took their time to climb, but even so, taking it steady, it still is a tough climb
# 8 macky said:
you’re right about the older people climbing. the local children as well. i started questioning my branded hiking shoes while they sprinted past me wearing worn out rubber slippers (and maybe a sack of coke bottles on their backs).
i’d also walk past an elderly man with a walking stick early in the hike, but then he’d overtake me later on as i’m gasping for air in one of my numerous breaks. talk about a real life tortoise & the hare situation.
once, on my hike down near the end (right before the river), i saw a large family group in their best sunday clothes. this included a frail looking elderly lady in a nice white dress being helped up the hill. it looked as if they were going to attend a wedding by lake venado (8000 ft above sea level?).
to this day, i am still perplexed by this & wonder if she made it up there.
# 9 rick b said:
Macky
good story about the old lady in the white dress, this was why i advised people to take advice before they went up, so, they would take the right equipment and especially clothing. a friend of mine climbed Apo 20 years ago and thought it was a stroll, he was freezing all night, couldn’t sleep and had a miserable time…taught me a lesson, Bob’s comment when he saw me wearing a jacket on the pictures (on the gallery) was about the cold and yes, i was sure glad to have that jacket….but i left 3 or 4 jackets like that in UK, when i came here in January and was a bit upset to have to buy another for the philippines, but i needed it
me too now i wonder how that lady got on, what were they thinking of?