The Chrome Wagons of Our World
Complaining and curious about my being a capricious E-mail correspondent, a friend in America once asked me, “I don’t ever catch you online; you seem to be the type who gets around quite a lot. How do you do that?”
“Hmm,” I said. “Jeepneys.”
Jeepneys – my friend wasn’t totally unfamiliar with this World War II mode of transport, which, after all, and like so many things Filipino, prevails as a vestige of American colonial occupation. But I hastened to explain that the jeep – their jeep – has undergone somewhat of a severe transformation in our hands, and that riding a jeepney here promises an experience that’s unlike anything else in the world. “You may love it or hate it,” I told him, “but since you had never lived in Manila, you are almost certainly bound to hate it.”
Not that I meant to be brutally presumptuous; but let’s face it: a Philippine jeepney is no Mercedes. It’s not even an oft-unwanted Kia taxi. It’s a third-world, built-from-scratch chrome wagon with wheels, a diesel engine, and a Love Radio sticker on its rear view mirror. It makes sounds which we imagined can have come only from the rowdy cars of cartoons and video games. And for eight and a half pesos a seat, a ride is anything but luxurious – in fact it feels like a punishment. As many as thirty people can be made to squeeze each other inside, all oily with sweat and sticky from the heat, like sardines in a tin can from Dipolog. The thirty-first might be the driver; and there’d be enough room on the roof yet, for the cockerels and for passengers unafraid of being thawed by the sun.
But as I said, jeepneys help me get around – not only effectively, but stylishly, flamboyantly. I love the zinc horses and the sarimanok emblems in front; the wild colours and the graffiti; the trinkets and flowers and scapulars that decorate the interior, or hang from an exhaust that’s blowing hell fumes on God’s clean air. I love the jeepney as mobile art, a collage on wheels, plying the most dangerous routes with most obnoxious designs. I love its enduring symbol as the proletariat’s choice for both movement and expression. I love jumping into a seat to chat with fellow passengers about the dire global economy and yesterday’s ball game. And I love watching Manila roll past at a frightful speed – its sights and sounds and scenes a magical blur to which I am witness.
Well, an air-polluted witness.
I love the Jeepney, its a wonderful colourful transport system that brings out the spirit of the Philippines, the colours painted the designs and the fact that you can always get on a jeepney, even if you have to sit on some ones lap. What fun!
HI Migs,
I love your way with words! You take ordinary words and paint great art. Thanks for another potrait………and the ” magical, mystery tour”.
Karen
Hi Migs…
They truly are artwork, in my opinion. Uncomfortable, but really special and unique to the Philippines. I hope the FX never totally replaces them.
I personally like riding the jeepneys. They are truly an egalitarian means of transport… Everyone is the same on the jeepney.
By the way, is the Bassig Store in Tuguegarao you family’s store? Stopped in this weekend (We were thirsty and looking for bottled water).
Hi Migs
Have to echo Karen. You have an amazing way with words.
The first time I saw a Jeepney quite something. Stood outside our hotel in Manila and just stared in wonder. They not quite so flamboyant here in Davao but still something worth seeing.
Although I dont notice many things anymore I still notice a really good jeepney. Reminds me a bit of the bycicles in Africa. They also get decortated. Love to see things that reflect personality.
John G: I love the jeepney, too, because it’s so affordable. If I had to sit on someone’s lap then I wouldn’t have to pay fare at all!
Hi Karen: Thank you so much for your kind words; the magical tour, thankfully, isn’t all that “mysterious” to me - I’ve always been a commuter!
Hi John Miele: I agree with you! May the FXs never replace the Philippines jeepneys; that would be such an aesthetic injury to the city.
About the store, I have been there; it’s owned by a distant relative, to whom I am not close at all, but there is indeed a connection. I hope they were friendly to you! (And maybe I’ll bump into you in Tuguegarao one of these days.)
Hi Carolynn: I am glad you liked the piece. Isn’t it wonderful and symbolic? The jeepney, its artwork: they represent Filipino ingenuity as much as anything else.
(And yes, no offense to Davaoenos, but the jeeps in Davao are relatively boring. Ha!)
Hi Migs,
Your story regarding the Philippine jeepneys reminded me of my two nephews, Matt and Blaire. They seldom ride in a jeepney because they’re sent to and fetched from the school by the driver. So when they’re told that they will commute, they’d be jumping with joy and shout yehey! ha ha… Who would ever think that riding in a jeepney is a treat?!
As you mentioned above, it’s either you love it or hate it. In our case, my nephews LOVE it…
Thanks!
Lea C. Walker
Hi Lea: Thanks for your comment, and for sharing your story about your nephews. They might love Manila! I certainly love the jeepney, but I hate it when they have to blow their fumes right in front of my face. Hehe….
Hi Migs.
You are really a man of words, like Hemmingway, the way you describe the jeepney make me feel like I was there. When ever I am in RP I ride jeepneys when possible, it is an experience I will not miss. To me it is fun and I meet the people that I love. Thank uoy for this travel down memory road.
Hi Preben: Thank you for your kind words. I hope that you come back to the Philippines soon, so you can relive once more the experience of riding a jeepney. Cheers!