Welcome To The PI: This to all those who still live in the land of the Big PX (or Navy Exchange and or Walmart) and are planning or thinking about moving to the Republic of the Philippines. I know that you’re beset with countless questions concerning a decision of such magnitude. So my response is study, investigate, and get off your duff and just do it! First thing you must and I’ll repeat, must know, is this is their country and you are just a guest. Subject to their rules and they will not change to make you happy. But if you’re married to a Philippine Girl you already know a lot about that.
The Weather: Four Seasons’ Mild, Warm, Hot, and wet as hell! Like Florida, but on steroids and no Disney World. The Rainey Season is my favorite, it’s a good reason to stay home and play with the baby’s mamma. Air-con is only needed on a few days and everything smells clean and fresh during the Rainy season. OOH, it’s smart to build your house on a mountain or a hill and steer clear of low lying areas, and or depressions, if I must explain more, you should study more about gravity and water flow. Example: A friend told me that every year for five years, the ground floor of his house floods. I advised him to sell the house and move to higher ground. His reply: “I’m renting!” You can’t help everybody.
Shopping: There is for some reason here, that if you have blue eyes, the price will double at the market. So I let the pretty lady I’m married too flash those brown eyes and I’ll wait by the car with a cold beer. If you’re single, and that won’t last long, then shopping will become easier. Also if you find something to like to eat, at the big super markets buy a lot, as you may never see that product again. Buy a freezer and keep it full.
Dealing with the Government: You never will deal with the government, as that is nothing but a concept. You will be dealing with people, and I’ve found that smiling and being friendly helps every time. Go off on them and you’ll find out just what stubborn means. People want to help people that are polite to them. When you return to that government office (and you will return many times) they will remember you, and help you get what you need. If you remember that backwards is the direction of choice, you should have good results in your endeavors.
Utilities: They may be shut off at any time and don’t waste your time trying to discern the reason, just plan for it. Electric, hard wire a generator into your house and keep it serviced. Water, drill a deep well and keep your tank full at all times. Phone, Duh! Cell Phone is the way to go and yes you can buy a 3G phone and get connected to the World Wide Web. Trash removal, outside of cities, build an stainless steel incinerator and pay some kid to haul off the ashes, a guy with a cart will pick up all metal, plastic, and glass from you, and pay you also. I’ve found that he will take it all if you don’t charge him, and I know he’s got kids to feed, so I don’t take any pesos from him. Fire Department, Forget about that, I saw them show up to a fire with an empty pumper truck. They left to get water and returned when the house was gone.
Word Usage and hand signals: If the guy next door asked to borrow a tool, money or anything. Remember that the word borrow means GIVE. He now owns it and he won’t let you borrow it back. If you hire someone to fix anything, he will tell you that he knows how to fix it. So if while explaining what you want he nods his head in understanding, watch to see if his hand scratches his head, if that happens he has no idea what the hell you just said. Then he’ll do it the way his grandfather (Lolo) taught him and ask to borrow your tools.
Public Transport: When riding on Jeepneys someone will hand you money, it’s not for you, pass it to the driver and say “Via Do”. When you want to get off just tap the roof with a coin and say “Para”. Pretend you know what you’re doing, when you receive your change look hard at it like you know how much the trip costs. If you’re taking a special Jeepney by yourself, tell the driver you want to give a free ride to all the pretty girls waiting for a ride (Charlie taught me this). As I said, you won’t be single long. Married guys disregard my last bit of advice.
Bamboo Telegraph: Know that the bamboo telegraph in the Philippines is the quickest and most effective form of communication here. Any place you go, or anything you do, your wife will know about it 10 minutes before you’ve done it. If you don’t believe me hide the battery in your wife’s cell phone and go try it. When you get home if her right foot is tapping, you’re in it deep dodo. If both feet are tapping, run my friend, run and don’t stop for any reason.
In conclusion: I’ve been around the world three times and watched a bear dance at a Russian fair and passed more salt water through my bladder, than most people have ever sailed. And I’m glad I live in the Philippines. The Country is beautiful, the people are wonderful, and I can afford to live very well here. This is why, I choose to live here! And you should too.
“And I’m glad I live in the Philippines. The country is beautiful, the people are wonderful, and I can afford to live very well here. This is why, I choose to live here! And you should too.” – Paul Thompson
Another great article, Paul, thanks. This leads me to ask the following question that I have been meaning to ask for a long time, but didn’t have the guts to ask it. This question is not just for you Paul, but for every expat or soon-to-be expat who have expressed their love for the Philippines at one time or another.
I am just wondering, if you take out your beloved Filipina wives or girl friends out of the equation, would you still have the same love for the Philippines, the culture, and its people? Is there some kind of transference at work here? Just wonder.
Transference works another way, too, or is identification the proper term for it? An individual, male or female, falls in love with a country, its culture, and its people. As an extension of this love, he or she marries a person from the country or culture the object of his/her love is identified with. Makes sense?
Hi John;
You know, that’s a great question! Would I still live here without being married? I will answer yes, as I have many unattached friends who live here and for reasons unknown to me they seem to have a great time. I like the people and the life style, I like the climate, I find the country to be beautiful with its diverse geography, and least we not forget the beaches. When I was single and as a Merchant Marine Seaman, I took vacations all over the globe. And still kept coming back to the Philippines, my affair with the Islands goes back to the 1960’s so I guess we have a little history going on here, again a great question!!!
Hi, Paul- Thanks for your feedback. You spent some time in Puerto Rico and owned a bar there, as I understand. There are plenty of similarities between PR and RP in terms of religion, culture, language, people’s temperament, climate and geography, even in political dependency to the U.S. In your mind, how did the RP beat out PR? Are Filipinas prettier than Puerto Rican women? 🙂
I remember you say that you left PR because of its susceptibility to hurricanes, or something, but the Philippines has its typhoons, too. So with all things pretty much even, what would you say is/was the final determining factor in your decision to choose the Philippines over Puerto Rico?
Oh, I know. I just realized the answer to my question, Paul. You don’t need to answer it. It’s the San Magoo. Hahaha
Hi John;
So you had that “Light Bulb” moment, I also liked Puerto Rico and the people and life style there.
Hello John, if we go by the number of times PR won the Ms U crown (5x vs Phil, 2), then we gotta give it to the Puerto Ricans. Considering their population compared to us, they have much higher batting average.
The “Via Do” you speak of is actually “Bayad, ho.” Bayad meaning jeep/bus/trike fare and “ho” as a form of respect.
I love your attitude about the unreliability of public services – water, power, phone, etc. I agree, rather than have a headache, if you can do something about it, albeit at an expense, then take care of it yourself! 🙂
Mia;
You are so correct, my wife explained that my accent is so bad (I’m from Boston) that the drivers never corrected me. In Boston beer is pronounced be-ah. But thank you for helping me out on how to say it. If anyone who read my post says Via Do to a driver, the driver will think to himself, “Mmm the Kano must be from Boston.”
Also it’s not just the Philippines; I lived in Goose Creek, South Carolina (I did not make that name up)years ago and had exactly the same problems with utilities. I did the same things there to correct the situation. Again, Thank You!
Hi Paul – Man, some expats will find the most ingenious ways to complain about their life in the Phils. Glad you’re not one of them. 😉
Paul;
I never complain about a situation (well maybe a little), if there is a slight problem, I solve it. I learned that from one of the jobs I held (I think). Kinda’ like Smart-Bro? Did you like that E-mail about the Montana?
Paul your delivery is as refreashing as a cold beer on a hot sunday in the tropics!
Great advice…happy that your enjoying it as much as you do and look fwd to being in the same shoes one day . I just have one questin….didnt they tell u in boot camp NOT TO DRINK THE SALT WATER??? I can think of better things to run thru the plumbing than a “Pacific with a twist” !!!
Brian;
Beer in, salty liquid out! I don’t buy it, I rent it. Thanks for your comment!
hahahahahahaha Paul … still laughin ! bravo an so well said and man so right on the money, except ….disney is an island hop away !!
Hi Tommy;
Keep laughin’ it keeps us young! Is that Disney Hong Kong, or Japan you’re talking about?
well i was thinkin HK but as you know this world just isn’t as big as some claim it to be
Hi Tommy;
I promised my boss (Granddaughter) I would take her to Disney Hong Kong when she’s ten. I think the world is pretty much the same size; we can just get there faster once we’re on the plane. It’s just the two airports that slow you down.
Hello Paul,Seems to me that you are right on with each point.
I have been living here in Bohol since July,2009.
Thank you for the story. Ralph
Hi Ralph;
Thank you, I glad it caused you a smile! Enjoy Paradise!
Great article shipmate. I am a retired Senior Chief, but I got lucky and got a retirement job here in the U.S. Embassy. The only problem is I can’t extend anymore, so I need to make a decision if I am going to stay here (without a job) or transfer.
Miguk;
There is no way I could answer that for you nor would I try! I think it would depend on how gainfully unemployed you would be. I have no doubt, that as a former SCPO in the World’s largest Nuclear Powered Navy, you will come up with the correct answer for you. Great talking with ya shipmate, let us know what you decide.
The problem is I am spoiled. There is no way I could afford to live the lifesytle I do now if Uncle Sugar wasn’t picking up the tab. My house rent alone is P120,000 per month — more than my entire retirement paycheck if I had to pay for it myself.
Miguk;
When I was sailing with MSC, we had guys coming down main deck almost using walkers. I asked one 68 year old, why he was still working, and his answer was somewhat like yours.
I built my house with no mortgage, and live very well, only you shipmate, can decide for yourself what’s right for you.
Built a house? You are a braver man than me since you in reality don’t even own it (unless you have become a filipino citizen already).
Migue;
I have two ex-wives, who both now own my former houses, with this house I’m just ahead of the courts.
this is an old post but I have to comment…
That is the funniest damn thing I have read on this blog…lol
Richard;
So old I’d forgot about it. I’m glad it got you to smile.
Paul,
:)) Land of the Big PX… Haven’t heard that saying in a while. I mentioned “Land of the Big PX” to this “new military” not long ago and they looked at me like I was crazy. Guess that saying went out with the “Army of One”… As for MSC, I spent 3 years sailing on a contracted MSC ship…
You are spot, why wouldn’t everyone want to live in such a beautiful place. But, then again if all kanos did wouldn’t it just become a Little America (much like the Subic and Angeles area). That’s probably among my least favorite areas of the “PI”… I wouldn’t tell every one how good they can have it here. If to many came to live/visit here constantly, it would become another Dubai. Once a nice place to visit, now it costs an arm and leg just to think about going there…
That’s just my opinion…haha, I could be wrong…
Hi Mike;
Army of One is giving away your age for sure. You know I’ve heard that said before, about, people moving to a new country and collecting together in groups. People have been doing that since the beginning of time. When a Pinoy goes to the U.S. does he move to Montana, or does he end up in Daily City and Chula Vista? Do not all great cities have a China Town? Did you know that Hong Kong has a section called China Town, go figure that one!
Haha, I didn’t know HK has a China Town… Hmmm wonder if the food is any different 😉 … I was in the military until the Army of One that’s about the time I got out. It is true most expats gather in the same area. When I first moved to RP I was the only kano living in my area.
I have the priveledge of keeping up with the military and working beside them everyday. So I have seen the “new military” in action. Its changed so much in the last 8 years. I can imagine how much it’s changed since you got out.
Hi Mike;
I was shocked also in Hong Kong to find a China Town, my buddy and I got a great laugh over that.
I had sailed with the Military Sealift Command for ten years, and since we supplied Navy ships with beans, bullets and fuel, we carried a small active duty detachment of Navy guys to handle the comms with the fleet. Working with them was fun for me, and they taught me a lot about the new kinder gentler Navy. Last month my Grandson (stateside) just went off to Navy Boot camp, I know he’ll have it better than I did in 1964. His Dad, (my son) is an Army guy getting ready to retire, and my youngest boy is deploying again to Afghanistan for his third tour, I also have the privilege of knowing a lot about the Army as well as the Navy. My youngest is a Warrant and commands a three tank unit and he told me he was staying in the Army until they send him home. During the Army-Navy game I not sure which side to root for.
Paul, I see you live near Subic Bay. The best…………..I mean BEST breakfast I ever had was in the VFW at Subic. The guy there made the best hot breakfast sausage patties I’ve ever ate. Last time I was there was probably1998. If he is still there and cooking I’ll stop and see him in November. I heard someone say he was a retired navy cook.
Dennis;
The VFW has moved twice since then, the cooks name was Joes and he was a retired sub sailor whom I’ve not seen for a few years. The VFW that you remember is now called the Sit-N-Bull and they now serve the best breakfast in Olongapo.
Hey Paul, Just read your article and really enjoyed it, I am also
retired Chief now I’m just waiting to retire again and I’m off to the
PI, already have home in Iloilo, little less than two years left. again thanks for the article.
Hi Shipmate Barney;
Thanks for you kind words, and I know you’ve got a short-timers chair hidden at work. We’re waitin’ fer ya!
Chair??? I meant chain!
Senior;
What you said is so true and just as I remember it being in the 80’s.
I have some funny stories about the bamboo telegraph. Can’t wait to tell you when i get there. 19 months and counting I remember when I started reading LIP it was 36 months.
Hi paulhow are you havent beeen here since my wife and i seperated last year just a bit sad ,anyway am over it now yes i can see why you would want to live there you are one of the lucky ones ,i dont know if its because my wife came here or not but i still beleive that had we lived there we would still be together ,the one thing that i dont like about the pi and for that matter a lot of other asian nations is you cannot own a home there unless you are a phillipine national ,here in aus you could be from mars and buy a home or land but thailand the phils and i suspect a lot of other nations you cant even if you would love to ,i agree 100% the peopel are friendly and generous and if you are single your right it wont last long hahahaha maybe one day i will return but not for a few years until my heart has healed
chris
Hi Chris;
I’m sorry things went south for you, but you might be right as to the why of it. Moving to a new land and culture requires a lot of work and at best is never easy. I was in a unique situation being a Merchant Seaman as I could fly off to work and come home to anywhere on Earth. I thought it was not right to bring my bride to the US and then dump her there and go back to sea. Even if I could have stayed home and helped her adjust it still might not have worked. I just don’t know as all people are different. Here in the Philippines a visitor with an ACR I-card can own a house and lot or Condo and not be married. If I’m wrong about this I will be corrected over and over again. Time heals all things, I was very bitter after my Divorce back in the 60’s that I stayed single until the 90’s. Best to you mate!
Paul, i also think if a guy is well travelled like us, it’s easier for us to relocate than a Filipina who may have not been out of her province, let alone her country.
A single foreigner can easily own a Condo.
Chas;
Very true I know there are many places on this big globe where I could live with ease. Plus quite a few that are such crap holes I’d give them a pass. My point was my wife likes being close to her family, and I’d not take that away from her.
Hello Paul, I will be moving to the Philippines, in the Subic area around the middle or last of June 2012. I am hoping that I can find someone assist me in locating a house. I want something around P15,000 – P25,000 a month. I prefer a 3 bedroom with aircon. Thanks.
Hi Frank;
Wow I’m a tad late with my responce, since it’s past June I’ll guess you are here all ready. Ley us know how you did with your renting
Subic Homes here in the Free Port is where I (we) decided to start at. 1600 sf, 3 bedroom, 3.5 bath “Truly Fully Furnished” like a condo-hotel, from the 32″ TV, all new appliances, beds living dining furniture even a bed in the maids room. Stacking washer dryer, includes plates and dishes and spoon, forks and knives, and even towels and bed sheets and the rice cooker of course. The only thing we have bought so far are 2 electric floor fans, and a china cabinet for the “display stuff”. Got a 5′ deep 32′ x 16′ swimming pool, I love to relax in, and it hardly gets used by others, only 300 steps away from my front door. (Yes I counted LOL) They are putting in a mini gym soon. Got a maintenance team, that are sometimes at my home in as little as 10 mins. Just got 4′ bushes planted around the small semi grass back yard to act as a mini wall of sort. Yard maintenance front / back is taken care of. Beautiful Carport. Central Air, set to 79 deg with the flick of a switch, A bit pricey, but I was expecting it, and are very happy with what I get for the price. For me to make the transition from the USA to PI for life, I wanted to go slooooooowly. But now that I’m (we) are here, they might have to pry the TV remote from my cold dead hand to get me to leave. 24 hr SBMA police watching the 2 entry points of who is coming and going into the area. A 5 man uniformed roving patrol. NO trikes / Jeeps. People walking the dogs at night. A 911 service that really worked. I call on a slightly aggressive loose dog, had 3 cops on my street in less then 5 minutes and they did not leave until they found the owner to give the warning too. We have had just one 30 min black out in the last 2-1/2 months. Only had to sign a 6 month lease…. Got home phone / great DSL and CCTV set up. They pick up the trash 3 times a week. Got a 24 hr fire station 4 blocks away. I got to stop or i’m going to go rent another house…………….LOL As we all say, “its more fun in the Philippines……”
R/ to you house hunters
Mitch
Hi Mitch –
Quite a description, but you let the air out of the baloon, you neglected to state what it all cost…………
Might as well go on with another 5 paragraphs.
No Valid Info.
Sorry
Paul,
Great article, I Love the Philippines, and not only because I am married to a great Filipina. Looking so much to living there and it cant happen soon enough. And if I was not married to a Filipina, I would still be moving there. I fell in love with the country and the people first, then was lucky enough to find my wife, my life’s true love. I even tell her that I think that I love the Philippines, more than most Filipinos love it. TC and I always enjoy reading your threads.
Paul,
I’m still laughing on the bamboo telegraph! I can see my Rebecca tapping her shoes and her hands on her hips looking at me! I can’t wait to come to the Phil’s for the first time..I am studying as much as I can and watching as many videos as possible on the Phil’s. I am in awe of their rich history, culture and beauty of the region; But most of all, is the simplicity of life and all the smiles I have seen. Those smiles humble me, especially after last years storm with Christmas right around the corner…Rebecca lives outside of Roxas City on Panay Island and she is the most amazing woman in the world! I just wish I could have met her sooner, but I believe God knew when the time was right..
Being former Army and traveling overseas, home is where my hat lands.
I look forward to this site and all the valuable information that I have learned so far…salamat po Ginoog Paul! Sa susunod!
Dan;
See even in Arizona the fear of an angry Filipina is well known, as it should be. I smile as my wife looks at me and asks: “Is every Kano a thick head?”
If you can laugh at yourself and learn that it will always be their way in their country, you’ll do fine here.