Last week one day, I decided to make a visit to the public market in Bankerohan, Davao City. Bankerohan is the biggest public market in the City, and it’s not too far from our house. Probably between 5 to 10 minutes on a tricycle from the house, and we are at the market. I have written before that I like to try to visit the market once per week or so (sometimes more, sometimes less…) for language practice. There really is not much better practice in speaking the local language than shopping at the various stalls in the market. It has gotten to the point that with my many trips there, I have a number of vendors who know me, and I regularly do business with them. In Bisaya (perhaps in Tagalog too, I don’t know) this kind of relationship is called a “suki” relationship between a vendor and a customer. If you are a suki, the vendor always gives you the best deal, the freshest product, etc., because they want to preserve their relationship that they have with you.
Well, this trip to Bankerohan, as it turned out, was really a microcosm of how life is in the Philippines for a foreigner. As I have written, there are many good and enjoyable things that I experience living in the Philippines, but there are also some things that are not so enjoyable. Let me tell you about my trip.
Whenever I go to Bankerohan, I always ride a tricycle. I never drive my car there. There are a couple of reasons for this:
- Going to the market is something I like to keep very “Filipino” in the way I do it.
- There really is no place to park a car there, so why hassle?
Well, the first thing was that there simply were no tricycles passing by the house! So, I started walking and figured that I’d catch a tricycle along the way, when one passed me. I actually had to walk a long way, which is unusual, before a tricycle with space for a passenger came passing by. Also, it was a very hot day, which made walking somewhat uncomfortable, out in the sun like that. When the tricycle came along, though, I waved to the driver and he pulled over. He already had one passenger, an older lady who was sitting in the front, so started walking toward the back. The driver shouted out in English:
Where do you want to go?
I replied to him in Bisaya: “Sa merkado sa Bankerohan, palihug.” (The market in Bankerohan, please.). When he heard my reply, the driver immediately started chuckling and talking to me a lot in Bisaya, and the lady passenger in the tricycle too. We all had fun just exchanging pleasantries. About 100 meters or so down the road the driver stopped to pick up a younger lady in her 20’s. She boarded the tricycle and sat across from me in the back. When she sat down, I said to her “kumusta ka, maayong buntag.” (How are you, good morning.). She did not reply. The tricycle driver looked to her and said “kumusta daw” (he said how are you?). He was quite clear that she should answer me! Ha ha.. the girl looked at me and told me she was fine. But, it seemed the this driver had quickly become my friend, and he wanted to make sure that if I asked the lady a question, she should answer me!
As we approached the market and the tricycle stopped to let us all off, I paid the driver P10 (the fare is P7, but I told him to keep the change, which he appreciated). We exchanged goodbyes and I went along my way. I was going to buy a piece of fresh tuna, which I intended to grill that night for dinner, so I needed to go to the Isdahan, or the fish area in the market. As I entered the Isdahan, I saw that there was not much fish available at the time. Only a few of the vendors had any fish at all, it seemed, and the fish that they had didn’t look too fresh either. I talked with some of the vendors as I passed by, especially my various sukis there. Finally, I did find one stall that had some fish that looked like it would be OK. The tuna looked only somewhat fresh, so I bought only a small amount of it. However, they had some other fish that looked pretty good, so I bought that instead.
After buying enough fish to cook on the new grill I walked around the market a bit more, and I bought some vegetables there too, some kangkong. Again, I bought from a suki that I know in the market, and she gave me a good deal. I talked with her a bit too. I asked her about her daughter that is usually there at the stall, but she is already back in school now.
After finishing up my shopping, I walked out to the main road at the market and looked for a tricycle to ride home. Again, there were not any tricycles in sight, so I started walking toward home, figuring that I’d catch a tricycle on the way. By this time, even though it was already hot on my way to the market, the sun was really beating down, and the heat of the day was quite intense. Sweat was running down my face, and I thought to myself that I better catch the first tricycle that I saw, because it was pretty uncomfortable.
Within just a few minutes, a tricycle pulled up from behind. I waved at him. He stopped and I said to him “Marfori 2” (that’s the name of my neighborhood). He looked at me and said “how much?” Well, as I said earlier, the fare for this trip is set, and it is supposed to be P7. I replied to him “how much do you want?” He told me P20 was the minimum. Normally, I would let him go on, but because the heat was really intense, I said OK, and hopped in. Along the way, he kept trying to turn off of our route, and I would tell him to go straight. This happened three times. On the third time he told me that he knew a shortcut. Well, I have lived in this neighborhood for about 8 years already, and I know the route. I know that there is no shortcut by turning where he wanted to turn. So, I strictly told him in Bisaya where he should go, and asked him if he understood me. My tone was very forceful and direct. After that, he did not try to take any more “shortcuts” along the way.
I sure enjoyed that first tricycle trip a lot more than the second one. Much friendlier.
So, why was this trip a microcosm of life in the Philippines?
- There are always shortages of items, or “out of stock” problems when you want something. On this trip that happened with the tricycles in both directions, and also the fish at the market was in very limited supplies this time.
- The people. Most people in the Philippines are very friendly, and I enjoy them, just like that first tricycle driver, and the passengers on that first tricycle trip. But, there are always a few people who are out to rip you off, or are unfriendly. They are by far the minority, but they exist. The second tricycle driver shows that.
I enjoy making my visits to Bankerohan on a fairly regular basis. Most of the time, there are no complaints. People are friendly. Products are readily available. This trip, though, there were a few problems. As I thought about it, I realized how the challenges on this trip really represented how life is in the Philippines for a foreigner.
Nailed it Bob. You are very smart for learning the languge, I know it helps a lot!
Hi jack – learning the language was the best thing I’ve done since living in the Philippines! It makes my life much more enjoyable.
Nice article Bob. I think the biggest thing that showed up was the advantages of being able to speak the lingo, as has been discussed many times before on this site. I really must do something about that so that I can speak a little before our next trip to Davao.
I wonder what was the point of your driver in wanting to deviate from the proper route, since the fare had been already agreed.
Without a doubt on the language, Jim. It has opened many doors for me since living here.
I am not sure why the fellow was trying to deviate from the route, it has crossed my mind too. One thought is that maybe he wanted to get off the main street where nobody is looking and try to steal from me, but I don’t think that was the case, because I’m a lot bigger than he is! 😆 Whatever the reason, he tried three times, though.
Hey Bob,
I was just wondering, How practical would it be to use a bicycle when going to the market? Is there a place to lock it up? How secure woud that be? Would you be able to walk down the isles in the market with a bicycle?
Hi hudson – Hmm… I had never thought about this before, and I don’t recall ever seeing anybody riding a bike to the market. There really isn’t a place to lock it up there, at least none that I can think of. I think it would be best to get there by some other means, but the risk is not great with the bike, though.
My wife informs me that a kano riding a bike there would be a source of entertainment 🙂
There is absolutely no doubt on that one, hudson!! 😉
you have me thinking of taking some bisayan lessons at home Bob. I had to laugh…nothing like the heat of the day, a long walk , and very few choices for transportation make you cough up a few more peso’s ……begrudgingly of coarse!!
Hi brian – I think that learning the language is a good thing, but it’s also a personal decision. By learning the language, I don’t think it would ever be a drawback, though.
As far as coughing up more pesos… well, the difference between P7 and P20 wasn’t enough to make me worry… the hot sun was more important than P13. ha ha
Hi Bob;
The one part I failed to understand was the part about other passengers on the Trike. If it’s the type pictured on this post, I can’t see how three people sit inside.
The Trikes here can carry 2 passengers at best, and maybe a back rider. I know different places in the Philippines have many and varied styles of Trikes. I could learn something new today, and that is always a good thing.
Sorry for the confusion, my friend. The picture is just a picture of some tricycles in the Philippines, but not the ones that I rode last week. 😉 The tricycle I rode last week can carry maybe 2 passengers in the front and 4 to 6 passengers in the back.
I’m always confused Bob; But, I’d love to see a picture of the one you road on, as that is completely new to me. We have nothing like that , here! See I did learn something new today!
Hi Paul – I just updated the article with a picture of a tricycle very similar to the one that I rode in. Usually on a trike like this one, the driver and two passengers can fit in front. The back has bench seats on each side that can hold 2 to 3 passengers on each side.
Thank you Bob; that is so cool.
Bob, maybe the second driver had some friends that would rob you away from the main route? Maybe, there was traffic off the main road where the driver would ask for even more pesos for taking so long? Reminds me of the taxi driver at the airport in Manila who had set his price for two airport reps and myself. At our destination, he asked for more pesos because of traffic. What is one to do in a strange land but give up the pesos? Wouldn’t want to land in a Philippine jail for a few pesos.
Hi Ed – I was also think that perhaps he had some friends on the other route, it’s a possibility. I certainly can’t really know what he had in his mind! Ha ha… whatever he was thinking of, I have lived in this area long enough to know that he was trying to go the wrong way! 😀
Bob,
Your right in leaning the language is a big plus. People are like night and day don’t matter were you live. Most people are respectful and show the good qualities of their country to all people who live there. But then again you always have the one that what to take advantage of the situation and rip you of or worse. On this trip you experienced alittle of both.
Hi B. Michels – Very few foreigners here take time to learn the language, and I waited a long time before I did it, but I am glad that I did. I am still learning, but have been able to learn enough that I can hold my own in any conversation. I would not call myself fluent, but I am probably as close to being fluent as you can get without actually being it! 😉 Ha ha… Yes, there are good and bad people, and good and bad things in the Philippines, just like anywhere else in the world!
Hello Bob,
Very nice article. I enjoy this site because it shows the day to day life of actually living there. Not like a brochure that is all lure and no reality. I have been scammed pretty hard by a couple of filipinas, one still stings pretty bad. But I am a big boy, I knew I was taking a risk. Also, I know that not all people are crooks. Thanks again for the article.
Michael
Hi Michael – Yes, unfortunately there are a few scammers here, as there are in any country. Like you said, though, we are both big boys and we know what the risks are. In this case, yeah, I got ripped off for P13 by the tricycle driver… I think I can handle that one, though! 😉
Hi bob great article ,when i first went there to meet my now wife i got done as well from the airport to the marco polo not knowing much a porter grabbed my bag and ran of with it straight to his mate in a taxi ,when we got to the hotel and were told the price ana gave him a bit of a serve as she realized he was taking advantage of the dumb aussie , my second trip things were very different no porters waiting at the end of the customs xray machine and i chose my taxi with aircon this time not one that was 110 degrees inside and couldnt wind down the windows on the way to leave i was mobbed by porters but told them i can carry my own luggage thanks they went of in a huff ,anyway i never got to see the markets in davoa but my wife now is planning all the places we can go and see the next time we visit she talked about i think it is called bholo near cebu anyway i cant wait to get back there
chris
Hi chris – Yeah, sometimes those porters can be a handfull, but as you say, they aren’t too bad any longer! I am sure you will enjoy your next visit! I think you are talking about Bohol, which is a lovely place!
Bob
Do you know of any websites that I can go to learn bisaya? My wife is reluctant to teach me , as she does not have the patience for a slow learner!
Hi Paul – I am sorry, I don’t know of any websites where you can learn. My teacher, Bebe Metillo is an excellent teacher, though, and she teaches people over the Internet, through Skype. Her rates are very reasonable. If you are interested, let me know, and I will put you in touch with her. I get nothing from Bebe if she gets hired for a job like this, but I just know that she is the best teacher around and that you will be very happy with her services.
You should go to Agdao for fish and stuff – its much more $$$ but it’s cleaner and I like the vendors there better – and I found “Boy” fish there, LOL!
Bankerohan is ok for veggies and stuff though.
Hi Cheryll Ann – I have gone to Agdao a number of times too… personally, though, I prefer Bankerohan. Much more selection there, and I don’t think that Agdao is any cleaner than Bankerohan…. 😉
I experience the shortage of tricycles quite often na. I think it’s ’cause of students back in school. Haha.
I’m always in fear of people trying to rip me off. Mainly it is because I fear someone will try to be friendly but in a false way. I have a hard time challenging things like that, because I fear being rude or offensive. I usually feel more comfortable when April’s with me, feeling she can spot it out better. She also seems to be able to order around if something is wrong. I should man up.
Hi Jawz – You should not be scared or embarrassed to be forceful if you think somebody is taking advantage of you. Explain to them that you are worried that they are not being honest with you. If they are indeed trying to help you, they will explain it to you in a way you can understand. Try to do things without April too, it will be good for you to get used to doing things on your own. You can’t be together 24/7, so it will be good for you to learn to fend for yourself too.
My Bisaya is very basic but I’m fluent in English and Spanish so I can usually sort out what the conversation is about, lol. I too rely on my Filipina to make sure I’m not getting taken too badly. I’ve been studying on a website called ‘Live Mocha’ where I was able to hook up with some free tutors. The concept is very agreeable: you share your language with others who want to learn it and others share thiers with you. There are some structured lessons as well but not in Tagalog. I found an Bisayan-English website via Google but the name escapes me now; something like Bisayan.net? Oh well Google is your friend, hehe. I love going to the market too but up until now I let her do the buying. When I get a little more Cebuano or Tagalog under my belt look out though!
Hi Mark – As a rule, I don’t go to the market with Feyma, I prefer to go alone, or with another bisaya student. If I go with Feyma, the vendors tend to focus on talking with her and not me. Since I want language practice, it is important to me that I do it alone, and not “through” Feyma as a filter.
One of the most important things in learning a language is to have a regular teacher who knows how to teach a language, and having a textbook. I, for example, know how to speak English very well, but I could not teach it to somebody adequately, because I am not a language teacher and don’t know how to set the building blocks in place. I tried several times to learn the language from “regular” people, but failed. With a real language teacher, I actually found it fairly easy to learn.
Having a good teacher is a great help, but I think you’ll agree total immersion is the best. I always pick up some new phrase or saying when I spend time with the future inlaws. I also like just wandering around the area a bit to see what I can see if you know what I mean. I find most people will speak to me in English first as they are wanting to practice their skills as much as I am mine. I studied Spanish in school for 7 years but it took living in a Domincan neighborhood for one to make me fluent, lol. I imagine the same will be true in Samar.
Hi Mark – Immersion is very important, and it is very effective, especially for children. For adults, we need a teacher (at least I do) who can actually teach it to me, then immersion helps drive it home. The combination of the two made learning the language easy for me. I don’t think I could have done it without both elements.
Learning phrases is great, but knowing how to use those phrases properly, changing things about them to fit the proper grammar and such is more important. One way that a lot of people try to learn a language is by memorizing words and phrases, but that won’t work to fully learn a language. You must learn the grammar, that is the most important, so that you can know how to use those words and phrases properly.
I agree with you, though, Mark, immersion is a real key!
Hi Bob, I might be interested in learning from Bebe. I’ve asked around, but nobody I’ve asked seems to know anyone in Gensan – I’m sure there’s an instructor here or two, but haven’t talked to anyone who can refer me.
Last time we lived here I had a really good teacher, she had been an instructor for missionaries and was very good – I slacked off after a while though – then we moved back to the US. My previous teacher moved from Gensan – too bad cause I would take lessons from her in a heartbeat.
You’re lucky that Bisaya is the perfect match for you. Rose, her family, and most of our friends speak Tagalog. The locals can all speak Bisaya, and most can speak English, but when they are together just having conversations it’s Tagalog – I’d love to be able to join in the conversations of our friends and family. On the other hand, Bisaya would be most helpful to me just getting around town – from our helpers, to the store clerks, the trike drivers, etc.
That was another great thing about my previous teacher, she could also teach Tagalog. Because of the “getting around factor”, she recommended that I start with Bisaya. Anyway, like I said, I might be interested in learning from Bebe if you could shoot me some details or contact info.
BTW – 7 pesos is CHEAP – they charge me 15 or 20 to go most places around town (and I’ve been refused a few times) – but then they don’t pick anyone else up – not that I would mind.
Hi Gary – I don’t think it would be a problem for Bebe to teach you Tagalog or Bisaya or both! I will send you an e-mail with her contact info.
On the tricycle, what you are talking about is called pakyaw, where you hire the jeepney to bring just you, no other passengers… it’s a contract deal, and yeah, that usually costs P20.
Bob,
It used to upset me when I knew a side-car or PU driver was ripping me off, until a buddy of mine pointed out the comparison to home. In responding to my critique of a side-car driver “Some little Filipino is willing to drag your big Canadian a** over x miles, up x hills, in 30+ degrees(C), for P$5?”(early 1990s) “That’s, what, 25 cents in Canada?” “Would you do it?”
Not much I’d do for a quarter, Bob, and maintaining transport vehicles does take a chunk of the profits. My MO is to hire a driver for the period of my return trip(pakyaw). Often, I’ll treat the driver to lunch and/or drinks, and make a new friend along the way. Maybe the driver just wanted to deviate from the route to take you by a bar or restaurant, for a kickback, or past his neighbourhood to show you off. Anyway, life is good when that’s the largest annoyance of your day!
Hi Mike – Ha ha.. I can assure you that the driver was not in “his neighborhood” as this is an expensive neighborhood to live in. Whatever his thinking, I told him where to bring me, and he was not bringing me where I asked, at least not directly. Whatever…. as you say, if that’s the most annoying part of the day, it was a pretty good day! 😉