Last week, I arrived in Cebu City on Tuesday. On Wednesday I had plans to head north to Bogo. I had never been north of Cebu City before (on the northern part of the Island of Cebu, I mean), so it was a trip I was looking forward to. Anytime I get to see a new area of the Philippines for the first time, it is a special thing for me. I’ve lived here over 9 years now, and there are still a lot of areas where I am still exploring and getting to know the country better. I have visited Cebu City a number of times, and headed pretty far south of the City, but this was my first chance to head to the north.
Cebu Roller Coaster
Over the years, I have heard from several expat friends living in various areas of Cebu how bad the bus drivers were there. I mean, they are not bad drivers, but they drive in a totally crazy way. Very fast, and very wild. Well, I am pretty familiar with the buses in Mindanao, and I figured that the Cebu buses were operated in much the same manner. Oh, how wrong I was! My friend, Rusty, had told me that the buses were the “Cebu Roller Coaster” or some term similar to that. He was right on target too.
I started out the morning by catching a taxi from the Pacific Pensionne House where I was staying in the City. I was kind of caught off guard when the taxi driver started talking to me as if he knew me already (speaking in Bisaya to me from the start), and he knew that I was going to Bogo and everything. Hmm… very strange! How could it be? Well, I soon found out that he thought that I was somebody else. There is another expat living in Cebu, that I suppose looks a little similar to me, he speaks Bisaya, and he goes to Bogo pretty regularly. Unfortunately, he has kind of a bad reputation, though, from some of his antics. After my experience with this taxi driver, I soon discovered that a LOT of people thought that I was this other fellow. Just what I needed. Anyway, the taxi driver took me to the Cebu North Bus Terminal, and I caught a bus to Bogo.
After having been told how wild the bus drivers were, I probably made a mistake by choosing the bus that I did. But, the next bus ready to leave was a bus from a bus line called “Rough Riders” and indeed, they lived up to their name! The first half of the trip, once we got out of town and on to the highway north, if I looked forward through the windshield of the bus, I literally was scared to death, seeing the way the driver was driving! Any of you who have visited me and gone anywhere with me know that I drive pretty aggressively, and it scares some people the way I drive. However, I drive like a grandma from Pasadena in comparison to this bus ride. Even if there was oncoming traffic, the driver would pull over to pass – the guy coming in the other lane would just have to pull off the road, too bad for him. When he was following traffic, he would literally ride the tail of the front vehicle with only about one foot of space between the two vehicles!
With this kind of driving, I sent a text message to Rusty in Bogo, and told him I was scared to death. Rusty replied to my text:
Oh, yeah, I forgot to tell you, don’t look out the window and see the traffic. you can’t do anything about it anyway!
Oh, my, how comforting! So, Rough Rider was an interesting bus drive. It took about 2 1/2 hours to reach Bogo, with some very scenic views along the way (when I dared to look out the windows!).
A farm bus?
Riding on the bus with me were a whole lot of guys with their fighting cocks. For the most part, they would have their fighting cocks in boxes, but you would often hear the cocks crowing along the way. What an interesting ride! One fellow got on the bus in Danao, Cebu, with a chicken (I think it’s a female, or maybe just a young cock) that was not in a box. Rusty told me that he had never seen somebody have a bird that was not in a box, so it was rare to see this.
While riding the bus, I noticed a bumper sticker on the wall of the bus advertising “Balitang Bisdak.” Balita is “news” and Bisdak is kind of a cute made-up word that means “Bisayang Dako” or somebody who really speaks Bisaya. So, Balitang Bisdak is the Bisaya News, I believe it is a TV program on the GMA network in Cebu. Being a Bisaya speaker myself, I got a kick out of this bumper sticker. And, riding the bus gave me plenty of opportunity to speak Bisaya with other passengers. The people were so friendly and helpful. I noticed how they would kind of “look out for me” since I was a foreigner, and the fact that I could speak Bisaya kind of made me their friend, and they made sure to take special care of me and made sure that I had a nice trip. I met a girl from Bantayan Island who was sitting next to me on the bus. She was always pointing out things along the way to me, telling me what town we were in, pointing out any landmarks along the way, etc. Very friendly. I got a little laugh, because as we started getting near to my destination of Bogo, she asked if I was already married (maybe she was looking?) and I told her that I was. She was a cute girl of maybe 25 years old or so. She told me that she was a teacher, and seemed to be bright and intelligent. I told her that I thought she was already married, because she was wearing a wedding ring, but she told me that it was her mother’s ring, and she was still single. She asked if I had any friends that I could introduce her to. ha ha… so typical here in the Philippines. Nice girl, though. Anybody interested? 🙂
On the way back to Cebu, I rode on a larger bus line, Ceres. They had a big fancy, rather new bus, compared to the rather old worn out bus that I rode north on.
Gun on the bus!
One thing that was kind of interesting on the trip back to Cebu, about 30 minutes into the ride, the driver pulled over to pick up some passengers. It was a family of 2 or 3 kids, a lady and her husband. The people looked to me like they were probably farmers. I was kind of surprised to see that the man was carrying a rifle with him! It was an old rifle, and all rusty. Looked like it had seen it’s better days. I’m not even sure that it would still fire a bullet, and I sure don’t know why the fellow was carrying the gun with him on the bus. Feyma told me that he might be NPA, but I am not really sure about that. He seemed like a nice guy. I really wanted to take his picture, but I was hesitant to do so. You don’t want to get a man with a gun angry at you, after all! A little ways down the road I heard the man and his wife talking and it was obvious to me that they would be getting off the bus pretty soon, so I took a chance. I turned and asked the man (in Bisaya of course) if it would be OK if I took his photo. He smiled and said “Walay problema” (no problem). So, I snapped it. By the way, the ride south was a little calmer than the ride north. The driver was a little more relaxed, I think.
Don’t forget to check back tomorrow, when I’ll be writing about my visit to Bogo, meeting with Rusty and my day there. See you then?
hellow bob/. one time on a bus from digos to davao i took pictures of the philippine army bording our bus for inspection and they told my wife to tell me to stop becuse it was a privet matter. but they let me keep the film. and i was surprised.
Good report, Bob. Makes me realize a., how lucky I am to normally be driving myself and b., how much I am missing by not riding the bus.
Your case of mistaken identity is something everyone should keep in the back of their mind … it's very common … kind of like General Ermita (a presidential spokesperson) a few months back making the comment about foreigners, "they all look alike".
I know it kind of rubbed me the wrong way at the time, after all my years of political correctness training, but then again, down at the basic situation that propted the statement, there's substantial truth behind it. People we are very unfamiliar with _do_ tend to look the same to anyone … I mean how many reading this could pivk their last taxi driver out of a lineup?
So just like with the "Hey Joe" that irritates so many foreigners, we all have to remember that we do look just like Fred or George or Herman to "Jaun dela Cruz".
There's more to culture shock than embryo duck eggs, that's for sure. Lots to think about.
Hi Jerry – I had a similar incident in Digos about 3 or 4 years ago. It did not happen on the bus, but some PNP guys asked me to stop taking pictures in Digos. It surprised me.
Hi Dave – Like you, I drive myself nearly 100% of the time when I go somewhere. Lately, I've been having the itch to ride the bus, though. Riding the bus is a cultural experience. You meet a lot of people on the bus, and learn more about their culture. It is something that I really did enjoy. The 2 1/2 hour ride was about the right distance for me. A ride longer than that would probably be too long for me, I'd say.
Being mistaken for this other fellow was kind of distressing for me. In Bogo, where this guy also used to live, there were some kids who were very scared of me (which is something I am not used to), because they had been mistreated by this other fellow in the past, and thought that I was him. It worries me about going back to Cebu very much, because I think that this fellow could run into some trouble sometime down the road, and I would not want to be mistaken for him at that time.
Hi Bob, You really got your first taste of Cebu buses this time! Seriously though, D'Rough Riders bus company has a notorious reputation for really dangerous driving. They have been sanctioned in the past for reckless driving and some unfortunate runovers of pedestrians. Glad you made it in one piece. It's true though, that the conductors and fellow passengers can be very gracious.
As far as the Bisdek Bisaya sticker–that's a new one to me. Here's a funny bumper sticker we had on our vehicle for a while: BISAYA KO! ANG KALIWAT KO GWAPO!
Oh Bob, on the mistaken identity thing–funny, that never happens to me. LOL
Hi Queenie – Yeah, when Rusty asked me which bus line I rode on, he told me that I had chosen the wrong one! Oh well, it was an experience (to say the least), and I enjoyed the experience.
I didn't know what "Kaliwat" was, had to get an interpretation from Feyma, but I like that one! 😆
And I thought the bus from Manila to Vigan was bad! It,s probably true that all foreigners look the same to the locals just as alot of filipinos look the same to us. It gets easier the longer your here but if you only see someone from another race on odd occasions then there is a similarity, even if it,s in your head. Despite the risks I still think buses are a good way to travel. New Zealand has it,s share of crashes as well.
Hey queenie – That's funny… I wonder why it doesn't happen to you? 😯 Seriously, though, I consider this a very serious matter, and it worries me.
Hi Daryl – If I want to really get somewhere, driving myself works best for me. For an experience, though, getting closer to the culture, etc., then riding the bus is a great way to go!
Hey there Manong Bob, it sounds like you had a great time on that bus, lots of interesting things to see, and it seems you've made a few friends, including a possible rebel! Just kidding, hehe, from the looks of that gun, it's probably used to kill larger pests in that farm of theirs (since you said they looked like farmers). My uncles have ones that looks like that. They usually go bird/bat hunting with it, or use it on those pesky stray cats that steal from the kitchen!
Just curious Bob, are those Ceres buses also popular in Mindanao? I know they're everywhere in Negros (where I live, there's like two passing every 10 minutes from early morning 'til 11PM, one in each direction) and they also go to Ilo-Ilo and Cebu. They're so popular in fact that to be honest, I don't know the proper Visayan word for "bus," I've always called those things "ceres" even though it's not a Ceres liner 😛 I even call Greyhound buses herein the US Ceres:
Me: "mu-anhi silang tita next week"
Other Person: "unsa may ilang sakyan?"
Me: "mag-ceres sila….Greyhound"
😀
To answer your question sir, ceres has its company down in mindanao as well, but they in different name thouhg, Rural Transit is Ceres in mindanao. they are in 1 company. Ceres mostly bought the local bus companies in Mindanao.
Bob, I could write a book on the crazy things that happened on the bus from Cebu City to my town when I was a Peace Corps! Now we choose to have a driver take charge of the road!
hi bob,
how many hours bus-drive is bogo from the city? thank you.
Bob you want a real hair raising bus ride? Go to Malaysia. It will make Filipino bus drivers look tame.
And your driving is tame. 🙂
Hi Jong – I was kind of thinking that the gun might have been used for shooting pests on the farm, like even rats if they are eating your crops. But, then I was thinking… "why would he bring it on the bus?" Oh well, at least he didn't shoot me! 😆
We don't have Ceres line in Mindanao, there are other bus lines here. The lines also vary depending on the route. For example, the most popular bus lines going from Davao to GenSan are Holiday Bus (same company as Holiday Taxi in Cebu and Davao) and Yellow Bus Line. Going to Cagayan de Oro it's Bachelor, going north to Agusan and the rest of Caraga it's Rural Transit, I think. But, no Ceres here. I would guess that Ceres is a Visayas line, because I do know that they ply the routes to other islands in the Visayas too.
Nice joke about the Greyhound! 😆
Hi Queenie – I drive myself nearly all the time, so riding the bus was an overdue experience for me. I must say that I enjoyed it too, although I would not enjoy it if it were my every day experience – I like driving myself too much. I used to have a driver, but it wasn't for me… maybe I'm a control freak – I like being the one with hands-on the wheel! 😉
Hi janet – It is about a 2 1/2 hour trip from Cebu City to Bogo on the bus.
Hi Ray – I don't know, when you were in Davao riding with me, I noticed that you had a tight grip on the handle up above the door! 😆 Just kidding… I have never been to Malaysia. Maybe I'll try it sometime!
Hi Jong, I think that the Ceres line is strictly in the visayas. They're fairly new to Cebu, but have a good reputation and are popular.
Just wanted to confirm that people from Bantayan really seem to be generally friendly and pleasant. I stayed a couple of weeks there a few years back and found the population there most welcoming and laid-back. In fact one of my favorite islands I visited in the RP so far.
Kamusta ka Bob,
Wow an interesting trip, the one thing that does scare me is thinking about the transportation there. I hate driving with other people, unless I am the one doing the driving…lol. Another thing I will have to overcome when I get there. I think I have more fear of this than catching a bad disease, or getting bit by a poisonous snake, or something like that..lol.
As far as the gun the man is carrying, I use to be pretty good at identifying makes of guns. But I have no idea what he has, it almost looks like a air gun or bb/pellet gun, or maybe a .22 caliber rifle..but just not sure.
Can't wait to hear more about things there in northern Cebu.
Salamat kaayo,
Danny
Hi Chris – I am glad that you enjoyed Bantayan! I wish I had been able to make it up there myself, but I'll have to save that for another trip, my time did not permit it this trip. Bantayan is a favorite place of LiP writer, Rusty Ferguson. Rusty offered to take me to Bantayan last week, but I just didn't have time.
Hi Danny – Like you, I want control of the steering wheel if I am in a vehicle, especially here in the Philippines. It is just what I am most comfortable with.
On the gun, I was thinking it was a .22, but can't be sure. I'm no gun expert, but whatever it was, it was a small caliber weapon. Certainly was interesting to be on a bus like that and have a guy with a gun sitting right behind you! 😆
On driving here in general,not that too long ago when I started seeing the "Hows my driving? call… it really cracked me up because you'd really have a tough time reporting all the crazy antics you see on the road. Anyway who would you be contacting anyway? It still makes me laugh to see those stickers…
Really though, for the most part,I see many of the Cebu drivers of vehicles and motorcycles on the road doing a good job despite what looks like a chaotic environment. I have to give credit to the many skillful drivers that really have mastered the difficult dance of getting from one place to another. The driving although not like you're used to, does actually work for the most part. Also I find most filipino drivers to be very level-headed and tolerant of each other on the road. I'm happy to say I've never seen any incident involving "road rage" here in Cebu. I really have to say that I think I'm a pretty good driver, but I could never in a million years grasp driving here in the city.
Hi Bob,
I’m sure Feyma’s happy when you arrived safe and sound… hehehe 🙂
Hi queenie – Yeah, those "How's my driving" stickers crack me up too! I mean, probably the only time I'd call is if the driving was exceptionally good, so I could give a compliment! I mean, bad driving is the norm after all.
I agree, tolerance is the rule of the road here. Road Rage is rare, if not non-existent!
Hi Ann – I hope she is happy about that! 😉
Kamusta ka Bob,
Yeah, is definitely a different world there, the bus drivers here would have either just passed him or try to run him over…lol.
As far as the graffiti, I have seen some pics of Maasin with walls, bridges, and fences with graffiti on them. Rose said that these are not gangs of course, especially in Maasin, but the kids see these things in movies, especially American movies. So I guess they think it is cool. Rose also said, that there are different barangays that have started working with the police, and when these kids are caught, they will be the ones that will be repainting those places that they have defaced.
Take care,
Danny
Hi Danny – I hate graffiti with a passion. Number one, it is unsightly. Number two, it is a indicator of bad things in the neighborhood. I am happy that the barangay officials are taking action! Here in Davao there is little graffiti, because you don't want to bear the Mayor's wrath if you are caught doing that!
Hehe, good thing he didn't, he'd have thousands of LiP readers charging down his throat 😛 Maybe he's just going to off to hunt in Bogo (which I'm guessing is less urban than Cebu and thus more animals :D).
As for the bus thing, it's actually true, no joke, lol. I call all buses ceres, and so do most people in Negros I know (that's how prevalent those things are). Be it Greyhound, the CAT bus, etc. I call 'em all Ceres. The only buses I don't call Ceres are school buses, they're "prison transport" to me, hehehe.
Thought they expanded to Mindanao or something, but yes they are very popular and reliable….and cheap too! They cost me about P1.00/km, far cheaper than the tricycles at P7.00 for the 1st km where I live.
I've ridden Ceres liners a bunch of times, and come June (after I graduate and go back to Negros to study at Silliman U.) I'll be riding a Ceres every time I won't have classes 🙂 I've not had a pleasant ride so far.
Hi Jong – Probably something like that with the gun…. hard to say! It was certainly interesting, though!
Hi Jong – Maybe they will end up in Mindanao someday, not yet though! 😉
Thanks for the " pre-view " Bob. Just a couple of weeks ago I was thinking about taking a bus on a future visit, not so much as a cost saving matter over using a taxi, but for an " experience " as bus travel seems commonplace there compared to here. Like you, I drive myself just about everywhere and I can not remember when I have ever taken a bus. Of course I would be traveling with Local friends there. Maybe if I wear some dark sun glasses I wouldn't have so much of an " out of town " look LOL.
Hi Bob – Happy to give you a preview! I think you will enjoy the bus ride, I enjoy it! Unfortunately, those sunglasses aren't going to take away that "out of town" look, I'm afraid! 😉
The rifle is a CO2 powered weapon – doesnt require a licence in the Philippines.I have never seen them anywhere else.There are small shops with real craftsmen making these things – even .45 calibre shotguns.I have one which was made for me in Paranaque about 20 years ago.
Hi Bryan – Thanks for sharing your info on that gun. I still kind of wonder why he needed it on the bus, but that's a whole other story I suppose. 😀
Hmmm….it would seem that they already have 😛 Just looked it up,according to Wikipedia, Vallacar Transit Corporation also owns Rural Transit and Bachelor Express along with Ceres Liner, lol.
Hi Jong – I thought that the Ceres Buses were so very similar to Rural Transit Buses! Ha ha.. thanks for checking that out, I didn't realize they were all under on parent company!
I must have miss-typed, I've seen a rooster out of its box but only once. I go pictures of a proud Filipino and his cock.
I've never seen a man with a gun in the bus though.
I use to walk around with a gun in the streets of Jackson, Ms. when I was a teen. I would be on my way to join a friend to go hunting or something like that. I even went into a store with it but I broke it down first. 🙂 Times have changed.
I get a kick out of all the banks in Cebu, they have a sign requesting you check your weapon with the guard. Geesh if you pulled out your gun in the states and they had a guard, you'd probably get shot dead.
As for the difference in driving, Like I say, you cannot assume that what you've experience in the Philippines will be the same experience in another part of the Philippines.
What the bus drivers will do is run the person they are overtaking off the road if they must. It really is true in Cebu, the biggest vehicle has the right of way. Things were pretty much the same when I went to Leyte last year.
They are much more respective of other buses and large trucks coming head on. They will pass cars, motorcycles and tricycles at ANY point, blind curve, hill, it doesn't matter. If they had traffic coming head on they would have no choice but to run the car off the road.
While walking, I've had them speed pass me with about one step to the side between us. The closest call was scary. I almost always walk facing traffic so I can see what it coming at me. So that means this bus driver came across the lane, into the lane for oncoming traffic. He was not passing anyone. I don't know what he was doing. Didn't blow the horn and I didn't hear him coming which is odd. That was about six months ago and it still has my attention.
Its the crazy things like that they do that really bother me. The buses also do rest.
Bob, next time just take your blinders. 🙂
Hi Rusty – I had a great visit. Yeah, the guy with the gun made for an interesting picture, don't you think? I may have forgotten exactly what you said about the rooster, no biggie – it is an uncommon sight anyway.
I hear you about what would happen if you pulled out a weapon at a US bank and checked it with the guard! Ha ha… 😯
Driving in Mindanao is much the same – bigger vehicle has right of way. However, the bus drivers are a lot less aggressive from what I saw in Cebu.
Hi Bob – Mistaken identity isn't uncommon in Asia.
My first "introduction" to the world of pinay was in the early 70s at a GI hangout in Okinawa. I had just arrived "on island" that afternoon (after riding a 22 hour "milk run" military hop) and a few friends decided it was the perfect time for me to "unwind" and be introduced to local "night life"!
No sooner than my having ordered a beer at the first club we entered, I was approached (a kind description of initial encounter) by a Filipina GRO who was obviously very angry and was whipping a "butterfly knife" into the "I mean business" position while rushing toward me.
Three GIs grabbed her and held her while one of her "co-workers" came over to me and started to chat. After the first few exchanges, we both learned the reason why such commotion occurred. It seems that I was a "dead wringer" for a former boyfriend who did her wrong back in Angeles City a year ot two before. She was going to even the score once she built up a little Tanduay confidence by giving me a "Philippine Haircut" (ear-to-ear)!
It took some time to convince her (and a couple of her close friends) that I had never been to Angeles, let alone anywhere in the Phils, and that this night was my first time to cross the international date line. They all finally believed me, though continually remarked on the resemblence. A Tanduay or two could bring up reassuring questions backed by "stink eye," but I luckily talked my way out of every haircut appointment!
Yes, to some, others merely look alike! 😉
Bob, you didn't snap a few pictures of the cute school teacher?
Bus rides in the Philippines are quite the adventure. From the passengers to the crazy driving, it really makes for an interesting time.
I remember going to Baguio several times, and looking over the sides of the road. In several spots the guard rails looked like someone had crashed through and gone over. Quite an experience. But to the Filipinos I guess it is just another day.
Hi Paul – Yeah, I have had mistaken identity issues in the past. but, this time, I had a lot of different people, independently all mistake me for this person I'm mentioning. It kind of scares me.
Hi Lloyd – Nah, no pictures of the teacher! 😆 Remember, I'm a married man, after all! 😉
I don't think it matters where you are in the Philippines a ride on a bus is a scary adventure ..I enjoy it too..I guess I have to try the buses in Cebu sound like it is cheaper then going to Disneyland.."All's I want to do is have some fun"..Phil n Jess
Well Sir BoB I am glad you made it alive. When I read Danny's comments it always reminded me of myself before I came to the Pines. What is it really like in the Pines? No matter what we say, nothing really prepares you for life here. Every week I am here I learn something new.
Crossing the road is still a slight problem because in Australia the cars are right hand drive. I occasionally look the wrong way at first and a couple of times I've nearly got squished by a Jeepney.
I have found the bus travel quite pleasant with Rural Transport, air conditioned and cheap as chips. No real dramas because we seem to always have the right of way. Yet I have seen two buses on separate occasions having crashed into homes around the same bend. Ah well, welcome to the Pines!
Hi Bob.
I love reading your travelexperiences, especially the bus ride which sounds like nothing have changed since I were there some 25 years ago. By the way, my wife is from Carcar, not too far from Cebu.
How would you rate the Pacific Pensionne?
Hi Phil – The bus ride in Cebu is different than the bus ride in Mindanao. I've ridden both now, and I can say that for certain! I did enjoy the ride, but sometimes it scared me to death! 😯
Hi Boss – Learning something new is a good thing. A lot of expats are so closed minded that they are only willing to admit that everything is wrong here, and learn nothing. It's OK to think that some things are wrong, but some things are right here too!
Buses crashing into homes? Yikes! 😯
Hi Preben – If anything I would guess that your bus ride 25 years ago was a bit more harrowing than it is today! I congratulate you for making it alive! Or, was the "bus" pulled by carabao back then? 😆
On Thursday, I have a bit of a review of the Pacific Pensionne, and other recommendations for Cebu, so stand by for that. Overall, though, I think they offer a great value.
Oh, one other thing, Preben… I've been to Carcar maybe about 8 or 9 years ago. 😀
Hi Preben, The buses back then looked nothing like they do now–they were much smaller, like heavy metal deathtraps with no shocks and packed to the gills with people!
Pretty place, Carcar with the spanish homes and beautiful church. The best pomelos from there!
Hi Dave, Funny you should say that because I do see a lot of foreigners here that look somewhat alike, but I don't ever see filipino men as looking similar. Maybe I'm just paying more attention to them than you are!
Hi queeniebee – The best pomelos in the Philippines are from Davao. Everybody knows that! The City is known for two things.. Durian and Pomelos!
Wow–I know durian but didn't know about the pomelos.
Hi queeniebee – Oh yes, it's really true about the Pomelos!
The big problem with the buses is the fact they expect to do whatever they want on the road by intimidating and forcing other people out the way. But what happens when a 10 wheel truck with the same attitude is on the road coming the other way?
http://tropicalpenpals.com/blog/?p=1702
nearly everyone gets killed.