I recently wrote an article about getting ahead in the Philippines by backing up. Just a simple piece about some of the reasons it is often better and easier to back into tight spots and an observation or two that foreigners and Filipinos alike are often not practiced and comfortable with backing their vehicles.
As always the comments to that article provided a lot of valuable tips that I either didn’t know or were explained better by the commenters than I would be able to.
I’d like to put a few thoughts together on driving and car selection here in the Philippines while all this is fresh in my mind. Mainly because the “Automotive Culture” here is similar but in some ways very different than what we in the USA have grown used to in a lifetime of growing up and then driving there.
Some Things To Consider:
1. A car is nowhere near as much a necessity here in the Philippines as it is back in the USA. In the USA a car is virtually a necessity in many areas, and many of us have always owned a car (or two or three) since we were in our early to mid teens. It’s almost an extension of our bodies. A man without a car is almost like a man without shoes would be here in the Philippines.
Recently my lovely wife, the Unofficial Cook and I were watching a US news show on TV in here our Philippines home. The item being featured was a story about a nurse-practitioner in Florida who ran her own medical clinic for poor families. The clinic was having a bad time financially and the owner/benefactor had been forced to cut the operating hours back to only three days a week. She told the reporter, “Gosh it’s so sad to drive up to the clinic on the days we’re closed and see the parking lot empty of cars.”
Wow. My wife and I just looked at each other and shook our heads. Poor people driving cars? Poor people in the Philippines wouldn’t even have a derelict car to sleep in, let alone one to drive to a clinic. (assuming, of course, the highly unlikely availability of any medical facility that wasn’t cash in advance.)
In the Philippines a car, even an old one, is a definite sign of affluence if not out and out wealth. And is you move here, especially if you are in my “Economy Birding” in the Philippines category, don’t be in a hurry to get a car, either. Percentage-wise, cars are a much larger portion of the budget of those families lucky enough to own them, and you can get virtually anywhere you need to go much cheaper using the very cheap and ubiquitous Jeepney, or tricycle or habal-habal motorcycle..
2. If you live in or near a big city and go into the city often, a car can be a real liability. Parking is often not available, or chaotic and inconvenient at best. A few days ago my wife and I had to take some papers to a branch of our bank in another medium sized provincial city. The bank was easy to find but the parking consisted of tiny lot in front holding three cars side by side, parked in two deep. There were no slots at all, so I had to stop in the middle of traffic and let my wife out to run in the bank. while I proceeded up and down the street, around the block, time after time until finally I was able to sneak into an empty slot in the bank lot. (blocking the car in front of me in place).
Sure enough, before our meeting was done, the guard had to come to find me so I could move my car to let the car I was blocking out. And I then pulled into the front space just vacated so that in seconds, I became blocked in by the next customer wanting to park,
When out business was done, we, of course, sat in our car letting the air conditioned cool things down while the guard went and found the owner of the car now blocking us in, and we waited while he returned to his car and the guard got both lanes of traffic in the bust two-lane street to stop and clear enough room for the “Blocker” to give me enough room to ‘escape” and then take his his own turn at being the “blockee”.
This goes on all day long, everywhere .. a real nuisance if you have a lot of stops to make. If you drive to a restaurant and park, you’ll get used to parking guards wandering from table to table holding up little white boards with car license numbers scrawled on them … hoping to find the driver of a car blocking i=another customer in, so that the blocker can leave his guests and meal and play musical cars in the parking lot to take his own turn as “blockee”. Be sure you want to drive.
3. You will be stuck in traffic. There is no escape. Be sure you want to pay extra (a lot extra) to be stuck in your own vehicle, when you could just as easily be stuck in a public transpo vehicle of a lot less money. Plus when you ride a jeep, you never have to worry about parking.
Things You Can Do Now To Prepare For Driving in the Philippines
- Learn to back up
- Learn to parallel park
- Learn to drive a stick-shift – it does matter if you _want_ to, you may have to drive one here.
- Learn to judge distance … you have to drive closer here
- The Most Important: Learn to ignore others. This is huge for many foreigners. You will see traffic violation and weird behavior by other drivers _ALL_ the time. If you are a self-appointed traffic cop wanna be, or a frustrated driving instructor, you will go crazy in a week. Reduce your stress, reduce your frustrations, just focus on yourself. Just ignore them,dodge and weave as necessary and proceed on your way. You’ll live a lot longer and life will be more enjoyable.
Always remember, It’s more fun in the Philippines … if you allow it to be.
Perla Galia
Love this article esp No 2.. and No 5, part 3…laughing by myself….
Dave
Laughter is by far one of the greatest aids to longevity known to man. Gotta use it whenever you can!
Kevin Sanders
This post brings back memories of my 9+ years in Manila.
Here’s another liability issue you didn’t mention: you probably be in real trouble if, God forbid, you were to injure (or kill) someone in some type of accident (motorist or pedestrian)–regardless of who is at fault.
Dave
This is true, but the Philippines doesn’t operate on the US system where everyone seems be suing everyone else for a hobby. But you certainly bring up a good point.
John Coldwell
Hi Dave, I won’t even drive a car here in the Philippines. They are too large (no matter which model you choose) and they have trouble fitting on the streets of smaller towns as one is crowded out by the mass of motorcycles, Jeepneys, buses, etc – not to mention the pedestrians. As you say, stick with the public transport – safer, easier, and cheaper.
Dave
In many cases a car can be an asset, but owning one is certainly a much bigger decision than it would be in say the USA or Canada.
corey
I primarily use a Scooter in moving about the various locales I have lived and have always enjoyed the ease of mobility and ability to avoid most traffic issues. I never fear for safety and in nearly nine years have never had an accident. I also have a van and use that for longer trips and again have always enjoyed ease of mobility. Sure I’ve been stuck in some traffic jams but I tend to drive at more opportune driving hours.. I do agree the necessity of using a vehicle is not as great here due to inexpensive mass transit: jeepneys, taxis and buses.
Dave
I’ve often been tempted to get a small motorcycle, but I just don’t think the risk/reward ratio would be worth it for me. I used to have a fellow foreigner on my street who had a small motorcycle, he went everywhere and loved the freedom. But even as an older man (in his 40’s or 50″s) and an experienced rider, he wound up under a bus three times in three years. (the last time hurt his leg quite seriously). ALL were clearly the bus driver(s) fault. Doesn’t matter though. A bus has the right of way, period and if you are lying under it you might get a summons for impeding public transpo. I’ll stick to 4 wheels myself, thanks 😉
Bus drivers typically make no salary, they get paid strictly by the miles they cover times paid passages carried. Drivers staying on the road 96 hours at a time is not unheard of …and you can imagine what “aids to alertness” they might use to stay awake behind the wheel for days at a time. (Hint. NEVER, ever argue with or pick a fight with a bus driver). “Speed Kills” as the old saying goes.
Andreas Steger
actually it is still fine not to have a car in Davao City. Just sometimes I feel the need to get one. For now we are travelling by Jeepney, Bus or Taxi and have no problems with that. Just because we are used to commute since we lived in Munich, a city you don’t need a car. For most Americans it might be a nightmare to commute for us it is pretty normal. Americans told me in Los Angeles you must drive a car but I found it still easy to get around by Bus and MRT. But by the way the city was just build for cars or let me say around the cars, no doubt on that. Here in PH I would easily drive crazy by the driving style of -most- drivers. I totally agree to your list of do’s and don’ts specially the last point. If we need a car we still have relatives and friends to help out but this is seldom the case.
Dave
Ah yes. What passes for “public transportation” here is nothing like “public transportation” in countries like Germany or Japan. It’s really nothing like public transportation in the USA either, for that matter.
But then, one of the reasons I live in the Philippines is BECAUSE it’s different than the USA. If I wanted things to be like the USA, then I’d move back tomorrow, and so would my wife. Fortunately she indulges me in my hobby of living here in the Philippines.
Donna West
not everyone in america who needs a car has a car. we live in rural area miles from town and we havent had a vehicle for 3 years now. we only leave home when we can find someone to take us shopping which is usually twice a month. jeepneys, trikes and taxis will be welcome convenience for us when we get to cagayan de oro
Tessa
Hi Donna : )
Like many others, my day isn’t complete without checking out LiP. I have been following the articles for several years now – and this site has provided me many ideas and insights. But like “a few”, I’d rather read and not comment. However, I couldn’t help but post one today as I feel I already know you and would like to help ease your transition to CDO. Although I’m not from there ( my family is in Quezon Province and I’m still currently in MD but will be coming back to the Phil. very soon), I can introduce you to good friends who could help you get around CDO better. I hope to be back home middle of March. So if you think this helps, please let me know. I wish you all the best.
Tessa
Dave
Hi Tessa, well you see, once again, making generalizations is wrong … and I apologize. Hope your move works out well for you.
Richard R
Great post for anyone contemplating moving to the Philippines. Not having to own a car saves a lot of aggravation and money.
Dave
Absolutely true, Richard. Although I do have to say I’ve owned a car since I arrived here and I am unlikely to ever give it up, even if I get too old to drive it. But it is, pure and simple, a luxury, certainly not a “near” necessity as it is in the USA.
Jojo Maquiling
This part 🙂 . “If you are a self-appointed traffic cop wanna be, or a frustrated driving instructor, you will go crazy in a week. Reduce your stress, reduce your frustrations, just focus on yourself. Just ignore them,dodge and weave as necessary and proceed on your way. You’ll live a lot longer and life will be more enjoyable.” haha.. So true, and I just realized that my fellow think that traffic rules are just optional.
Dave
Yep. Just go with the flow and you’ll live longer and happier.
Lenny
Motorcycles are dangerous…what you say about cars is the reason I don’t own one also considering the made in China parts that you will have to replace soon..cost of maintenance is what i am getting at…..I have lived here 9 years now never had a transportation problem sometimes my friends who own cars take us with them to larger gatherings so it has worked out well with me…It’s a tough road out there if you drive anything …..
Dave
In my case getting a car was mainly to be the one to carry a lot of family members to those sorts of gatherings, and I am glad to do so. Family is very important to my wife, and to me too, so I never mind being the driver. I met a lot of wonderful people, some of them already gone now, and my life would have been ever so much poorer had I not had the opportunity.
But it is certainly not cheap, indeed.
April Pulvera
Bob, is this your website liveinthephilippines.com?
Bob Martin
Yes, April.
April Pulvera
okay…
April Pulvera
Done reading your article, and it’s really true Bob. My husband got a shocked when he drove around davao city for the first time. And he found out how bad the drivers driving here. The second time, he knew how to be a bad driver also :). He would kicked out back home if he would live in the phil for a long time and adopt the attitude being a bad driver. 😀
Gary
Counterpoints i.e why it is nice to have a car
1. I lived in 2 places in the Phl where the closest public transportation was at least a 30 minute walk away from my house; one was a rich area (30 minute walk just to the front gate) and one was a farming community. I think this is a common situation for people that don’t live in a city. If they don’t have a car people just get use to the walking and waiting. Even where we live now it’s about a 15 minute ride into town if you can flag down a tricycle going by outside of our subdivision.
2. In many places there is not enough public transportation at night. This has been the case in every place that I have lived; the Santa Rosa, Laguna area, Tuao, Cagayan and Tuguegarao City, Cagayan. So if you don’t have a car in these places it is difficult to go out at night.
3. No aircon in open air public transportation
4. If you need emergency transportation to get to a hospital you really need a car.
I’ve always had a car and will always have a car while living here.
John Reyes
If you live in the city like Manila, you can afford not to have a car for the reasons stated, unless you live in the outlying areas like Bulacan and Cavite. Perhaps commercial parking lots like “Park and Ride” and “Kiss and Ride” could be built around the fringes of Manila where commuters from the provinces can park their cars all day then take the Metro into the city? It would be a profitable business for the city or for some enterpreneuring individuals, and will also help ease the traffic congestion within the city, Question is, are there any available empty lots left other than those occupied by squatters?
However, if you live in a barrio in the province like Salaza, Palauig, Zambales, a car is a necessity. You’re not putting yourself at the mercy of the Victory Liner that doesn’t run at night when you’re having stomach cramps.
PapaDuck
John,
It would be hard to find open space to build a park and ride in Cavite. Cavite you really can do without a car. You can take a bus(granted you might be standing) or a UV Express via Cavitex to Coastal Bus Terminal or a UV Express all the way to Manila if one is available. From the terminal you can catch a UV, jeepney, city bus or taxi to wherever you want to go in Metro Manila. I prefer the UV which is just as cheap as the jeepney, but is quicker and has Aircon.
Dave
Agree especially on your number 4 point there Gary. One reason I am never likely to give up my car is the question of how me or any of my neighbors or loved ones is going to get to a hospital in emergency or even routine medical situations.
A lot of this boils down to that age old question about living in a city or living out in the provinces. “Cheap” isn’t always everything.
SteveC
Good article Dave, some common sense and some good humor as well. My girlfriend and I are here in the province in the third week of a month long visit. My Bayaw scored a scooter for us to drive and it’s been a blast! It’s amazing what a kick it can be to have the mobility to just jump on and jet up to the market to buy what the family needs for dinner! No need to worry about speed limits, traffic lights or some other driver being uptight about my driving on the wrong side of the road to avoid the chickens or Carabao poop! Oh and crazy as it would seem out here in the country we’ve never had to wait more than five minutes for public transportation when the need arises.
Steve
Dave
Yep it can be a lot of fun to drive here as well. I love making the trip to our farm up in Zambales a couple hours north of Manila. Just drive the way you want, any way you want … make your own way. Works for me.
Kevin
It’s the same here in Cambodia. No parking anywhere, drivers stopping in the middle of the road, etc.. One thing I have noticed is that many motorcycle drivers talk on their cell phone while driving here. Seems many of the younger generation do it the most. So far, I haven’t seen many accidents, probability because everybody goes so slow.
Dave
Well there’s plenty accidents here in the Philippines, but it’s true many are low speed and don’t result in the kind of fatality toll one sees in the US.
Cordillera Cowboy
Good points Dave. We share a car with the family business, the farm, and visiting relatives. One thing I’ve learned is that driving in the Philippines is not something you do for relaxation.
Going without is a good way to get a feel for the pace of life in the Philippines. It takes time to get where you’re going. Relax and enjoy it.
Take are,
Pete
Dave
So true, Pete. I can’t believe how many people SAY they moved to the Philippines for the slower pace of life here, and then dive themselves frantic because they can’t stand the time it takes to get somewhere in traffic. “Does Not Compute, Jim” as my friend Mr. Spock used to say 😉
Andy Farman
All good points and well made. As a retired cop I was grinding my teeth for a few weeks but now I have gone native. Do as the locals do and don’t give a crap.
Well we have been here three years and I have been driving for all but the first three months. Yes, the average standard of driving is pretty poor, but factor that into your thinking and just accept it. You can accept that a bus is going to pull out in defiance of the rules of right of way in London, so accept that nearside overtaking and a general cultural idea that motorcyclists and pedestrians believe that their safety and welfare are the sole responsibility of complete strangers, and you have cracked it.
Well I say ‘cracked it’, but I was referring to the easy bit, town driving by day or night.
The hard bit is rural driving at night, the black clad motorcyclist and his entire family, a sack of rice, a pig and two chickens on a moped without lights
See that single light ahead of you? Is it a moped or an articulated truck with only one working bulb OR is it two mopeds carrying a wardrobe between them and only one has a working headlight/tail light?
The other extreme is the rich guy in the bling bling 4 x 4 with extra spots and all of them on main beam, which are never dipped out of courtesy or in the interests of road safety.
That is the hard bit.
Beware Philippine buses for they have two speeds, stationary whilst blocking the road, on an unlit bend, and Warp Factor 5, in your face, on your side of the street. The driver will have been drinking and will be watching porn, not the road.
The way to deal with rural driving at night is not to, not unless you really have to. As for buses, well just give way, you only have one life.
Dave
Agreed with all you say, especially buses. Long ago in some diver’s ed course or another I was told, “what the front wheel of vehicles you are passing, it’s often the first clue the driver intends to pull out.”
With a bus here, that is so. so true When you see that wheel swinging as the bus moved, the bus WILL come into your lane. It’s much easier to hit the brake then than to ram into the Blankety blank driver in a few more yards .. you hit him you are gong to lose paint or money or both.
Mike K.
Perhaps it’s living in Asia since the late 90’s or perhaps it’s always feeling this way, but, it’s those crazy American and European drivers that have always scared me. Especially the teenagers behind the wheel of a fancy car that mommy and daddy bought for them!
Traffic in the Philippines is horrible because there are too many vehicles and not enough roads or parking. Drive like an American here and you won’t even make it out of the parking lot until midnight.
Dave
Yep. It’s a fine line between assertive and aggressive .. sometimes you have to be a little of both.
sugar
Hi Dave -Great post. If Filipinos have money, they would buy a house than own a car.
Dave
And if they have money for both, they’ll buy a Pajero and expect everyone to get out of the way 😉 One thing I didn’t mention in the article is keeping an eye on the make (relative costs) of the cars around you. If a little cheap car is trying to “make singet”, no problem, hold your ground. But if it’s a Pajero or a BMW? Might as well relax and let him in, because he’s going to take the lane anyway.
Andy Farman
The white Pajero or 4×4 BMW with the gold effect trim and door handles is covered in the Philippines Highway Code, provided it has ‘Registration Applied For’ in place of licence plates, which identifies it as brand new and P4Ms work of motor, it has automatic right of way.
Ken
I grew up an MK in the PI in the 80’s. I attended Faith Academy in Antipolo outside of Manila. My parents were missionaries in Angeles City. My first driving experiences were in Angeles city. When I was 15 I had my license and began driving. By the time I was 17 I was a very aggressive Manila traffic veteran. I loved it. My friends and family think I’m a psycho because I still drive that way. I’m 50 now and my wife (an American who grew up in the PI) and I are starting our preparations to retire in Apari. We are excited and ready. I’m ready for the Philippine driving challenge again.